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Miss Emily - early 90's photo.
Click pict for another image.
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The Bahamian National drink is the “Goombay Smash”. It is the most famous drink of them all, and got its start at Miss Emily's Blue Bee Bar, a little out of the way place on Green Turtle Cay back in the 60's. Her bar has long been “THE” watering hole for the cruising yachtsman and early pilots who made the Abacos their getaway home. Sadly, Miss Emily passed away in 1997 but the traditions of her ÒestablishmentÓ are now being run by her daughter Violet.
Today, throughout these islands, and the Caribbean in general, most all the “specialties of the house” drinks are made with assorted rums and fruit juice with pineapple and coconut being the main ingredients. In the Abacos, you will come across the Tipsy Turtle at the Green Turtle Club. The Guana Grabber was the drink of renown at the Guana Beach Resort on Guana Cay until it burnt down. It has been replaced by a drink called the Nipper, named after the cliff dwelling restaurant and bar of the same name. Others we have tried are the Bahama Breeze, Banana Flavored Yellow Bird and something called a Conch Pearl, all at the Abaco Inn, on Elbow Cay. Then there is the Reef Wreck at the Hope Town Harbour Lodge. Cracker P's has it's shotgun and if You make it all the way down to Little Harbour on Abaco's mainland to Pete's Pub, you can try his high powered Blaster. They wont serve you more than two if you came on two wheels - bike or moped.
If by chance you are a RED WINE drinker, you are out of luck in the Abacos. The red wine is right up there with all the rums and vodkas and more importantly at Abaco temperatures. So if you don't mind warm red wine or don't care about diluting your red wine with a handful of ice cubes, you'll be OK. Otherwise switch to white. Less I forget, the Beer of the Bahamas is Kalik pronounced calick and brewed in Nassau. Although in 2008 a new Beer hit the bars from a brewery in Freeport. It's called Sands. By the way, Kalik, comes in Light 4.5% Alcohol, Regular 5.0% and Gold 7.0%. Doing the math three lights equals two golds!.
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On my 2009 trip I noticed they've ressurected an old favorite. At Captain JackÕs, where I tried one, it's called a SWIDGEL. For generations, in numerous Caribbean & Bahamian songs, Calypsonians sang about ÒGin & Coconut WaterÓ. ThatÕs a Swidgel or as itÕs called elsewhere Gully Water or Sky Juice. Understand its made with the water inside a coconut, not the pureed canned paste used for pina coladas. A little milk is added and of course your alcohol of choice. Many islands being at one time British, Gin was and still is the popular favorite.
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Ole Cracker P. himself
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Paul John Simmons alias “Cracker P Pinder” the namesake of the bar of the same name on Lubbers Quarters, was born 1879 and hailed from Lexington Ga. He was a veteran of the Spanish American War. His bayonet is mounted in the showcase of the bar bearing his name on Lubbers Quarters. In 1915 his family duck was terrorizing the neighborhood causing a fight between Cracker and sheriff Hickory Cartwright. In the ensuing struggle Cracker shot the sheriff and becoming a wanted man he fled to Florida. In time he caught a schooner to Wilson City (near Marsh Harbour). He disembarked, knowing this was to be his new home.
He worked his way to Hope Town, where he spent his first two years and met Mr. Lucene Pinder, Abacos commissioner. Eventually he took his name. It is said that Crackers family in Georgia sent funds “To Cracker” through Lucene. Later he settled on Lubbers Quarters where he fished and farmed. He planted many sapodilla trees, which is the fruit used in Bahamian Barbecue Sauce. Cracker built a continuously burning cooking fire which wasn't extinguished till he died in 1954.
Cracker had a limited wardrobe and therefore was the first naked person seen by the locals. Some locals say he had a small caliber rifle and was such a good shot that he could hit a fly on the top of the lighthouse. He would pole into town once a month for supplies. Folks would bring him meat in exchange for the vegetables he raised. He lead a truly reclusive life.
Cracker's gone now but his legend remains supported by two pictures and trinkets of his, in the bars showcase baring his name. The sweet sweet dilly - sapodilla trees still grow on the property where he lived, and where the bar now stands. Sitting on the porch you can see the remains of a pier he built with coconut trees towering over it. It's a pastime for local folks to have a drink in this lovely spot, while watching the unsuspecting sailboats run aground on the shoals in this part of Abaco Sound.
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Abaco Bartenders
(*Retired from the profession.)
   
Green Turtle Cay's Bar Tending Ladies:
1) Violet at Miss Emily's Blur Bee Bar. 2) Everybody's friend Debi, at The Green Turtle Club. 3) Vern* at the Bluff House and 4) Evon at Pineapples.
   
1) Gary at the Hope Town Harbour Lodge, 2) Johnny the Boss Man Himself at Nippers, Along with 3) Mickey. 4) Roy* and George* at the Abaco Inn.
  
1) Sabrina* at Cracker P's - Lubbers Quarters, 2 & 3) Lee* at Pete's Pub, Little Harbour doing a bit from the movie “Cocktail”.
  
1) Pete Johnson proprietor of Pete's Pub, 2) Linda & Patrick, proprietors at Cracker P's. 3) The elusive Captain Jack. Proprietor of the establishment baring his name.
  
1) Justin at Harbours edge. 2) T.J., Bartender at Ray's (H.T.H.L) and Curlie Tails - Marsh Harbour. 3) Brook*, Bartender at Ray's (Shown here at her shop “Sun Dried Tee's” )
  
1) Althea at Capt'n Jacks. 2) Tonya at Cracker P's 3) Pat* at Nippers
  
1) Robby at Ray's Place (H.T.H.L.) 2) Mike the Manager at Jack's 3) Joey at Curley Tails
  
Honorable mention goes to: Three of the Nine Sisters - Wonda, Wilma and Dafney (Taken at the Abaco Inn)
   
Three Newbes from Cracker P's 1) John, 2) Monice, 3) Brendan and 4) Shane from Harbours Edge
  
From 1) Sundowners on GTC - Caroline, 2) Christine from Nippers and 4) Troy from Grabbers
  
The main players from Treasure Cay: Sam Cooper AKA Jr. from the Tipsy Bar, Clevi Fawkes from Spinnakers and the late (6/09) Prince Bodie from Coco Beach Bar
The Night shift from the Tipsy Bar
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Beer Drinking - Here's a Practical Tip
This may be old news to some, but in early 2006 I discovered quite by accident
sandals with a built in beer bottle opener! - Perfect for the Bahamas since Kalik doesnÕt come with a screw off top. Nor does Heineken, Becks or other Bahamian imports and how many times does one find themselves with a cooler full of beer and no opener.
Fact is, my girlfriend bought the sandals without evening noticing the opener and I only noticed the metal opener when handing her the sandals. I'll definitely add a pair of these (at least for one person in the group) to my priority item list when traveling to the Abacos. For Information on where to get them click on the picture below.
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Sandy's Solutions to the Tropical Drink Dilemma.
In the Abacos you can try a different drink every day and it would take you a month to try them all.
But what happens at home? It's not practical to stock up with all sorts of fruit juice, rums and flavored liquors.
- Sandy's Solution -
On the occasion of a tropical barbecue, grouper, Bahamian lobster tails, conch salad and all, I wanted "my own" tropical drink - my house specialty to serve guests when the situation arises. And it would always taste the same on repeat visits. So, I did some experimenting and came up with what you see below. Only five ingredients are needed and I always have Mount Gay Barbados rum on hand anyway.
It's easy to make and consists of many of the same ingredients used in the islands. I played around and came up with 5 ingredients , the combination of which I will call, "Sandy's Solution" to the tropical drink dilemma. You can call it what you like. If a party isn't on your roster, it's perfect for when you are home in the frozen north wishing you were back on your favorite tropical beach or bar. Just add music.
4 oz. Mt. Gay "Eclipse" Rum*
6 oz Don Ricardo or Cruzan Coconut Rum
2 oz Apricot brandy
12 oz Mauna Lai (Motts) or other Guava juice
16 oz Pineapple Juice
Shake & serve over ice. Makes 4 - 10 oz. drinks. Of course you can add a cherry, slice of Orange or one of those silly umbrellas or even an orchid if you like. Or if you really want to impress cut the top off a pineapple, remove the fruit and core being careful not to poke a hole in the bottom. Discard the core and puree the fruit in a blender and use it in place of, or with some of the pineapple juice. Notice all the quantities are easily divided by two if you want to make half the indicated amount.
And for a Winter Escape
using the same ingredients, minus the juice.
Check out the Motu Iti in the next column.
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- The Motu Iti -
Last winter, I was sitting around and in the mood for a cocktail. I wanted something reminiscent ot the tropics but not in a tall glass with all sorts of fruit juice and or sweet. I came up with my new drink. I call it the Motu Iti, Polynesian meaning "Little Island", and reminiscent of an island hopping sojourn I once made in the South Pacific. Motu Iti later became my boat name that later took me to the Abacos, which also energized this endeavor.
After experimenting with a half dozen liquoirs I came up with the Motu Iti, not realizing the ingredients were the same as my "Solution", just without the juice.
Using a small (single drink) shaker I filled it with ice of course, filling it to about a half inch from the top with Mount Gay Rum. I then filled it the rest of the way with equal amounts of Coconut Rum and JacquinÕs Apricot Brandy. That translates into 3 oz + 1/2 oz + 1/2 oz. X2 for large shaker. It was then of course, shaken not stirred.
Yup, tasted pretty darn good and now a staple in our household. You might want to give it a try. The Coconut and Apricot punch through enough to give the Motu Iti a lovely tropical bouquet and taste. Next time offer your guests a Motu Iti. And if you find yourself in a nice restaurant ask for one which I've done. You probably have to provide the bartender with the ingredients.
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In both cases above I do not suggest using Baccardi / Ron Rico clear type rum.
Instead try and sticking to a medium dark rum like Mount Gay or Appletown etc and Meyers might be too heavy.
Where it all started.
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Now to the food:
The waters of the Abacos provide a great variety of fresh local fish and are prepared in a variety of ways from a sandwich on a bun and barbecue to piccata and oscar. You've just got to try the Grouper Nantua appetizer found on many menus. Fresh greens are sometimes hard to especially a ripe tomato. Their staples are peas & rice, BAKED macaroni & cheese, french fries and coleslaw. Chicken is abundant and you can easily find a steak or rack of lamb at the resort restaurants. The Absolutely best steak is at the Jib Room in Marsh Harbour on Saturday -steak night (2007). Lobster/crawfish is local and expensive. It is available off season (summer) but frozen which is the way you usually get lobster tails anyway. Conch is another mainstay and available as; conch fritters, cracked conch, conch burger and two non fried items conch chowder and my very favorite conch salad. Of course every restaurant offers there version of the Cheeseburger in Paradise. On our 2006 trip there were six of us and as usual we voted on the best cheeseburger in paradise. This year we were evenly split on the best with half voting for Nippers and the other half going to Cracker P's. Pete's Pub at Little Harbour was 3rd. Some of us were greatly disappointed in Jack's
One of the conch staples is conch chowder. Debbie made it her business again on our 2006 trip to sample this soup at multitude of locations. Her favorites remain. Her first choice being, The Abaco Inn on Elbow Cay, runner-up the Wrecking Tree on Green Turtle and last but not least the light creamy white version at the Hope Town Harbour Lodge.
On our 2007 trip, because a steady lunch of cheeseburgers isn't the healthiest, we pretty much ate grilled fish sandwiches for lunch. The two of us came up with in order of preference 1. Pete's Pubs Grilled Hog Fish (snapper) accompanied by their wonderful "fruity" coleslaw. 2. Pineapples on G.T. Grilled Dolphin with all their trimmin's. and 3. Snappas in Marsh Harbour, also Dolphin (mahi mahi). Note on a 2nd visit to Pete's we went our friends. Naturally I recommended the Hog Fish. Unexpectedly it turned out to be pan fried - not even close!
One of my favorite things in the Abacos is sampling the Conch Salad. (more info and recipe). It is this mans very favorite food in the Bahamas. It's refreshing, non fattening and tasty. The prime ingredients are conch (obviously) tomato,onion, celery, cucumber and sometimes Green Pepper . To this they add a little line or orange juice plus for spice worcestershire and or tabasco sauce. It's all finely chopped up and served in a cup with a spoon. It's better than Ice cream. Each vendor or shop makes it their own way and likewise each varies slightly in taste from one to another. One of my favorite spots is the street vendor you will see just a few hundred feet to your right when leaving the Conch Inn in Marsh Harbour. His stand that has been there for years. Get your self a pint. It's also sold in the New Plymouth markets and usually off the shelves by mid morning. We've found only two restaurants that have this as a regular item on the menu: The Wrecking Tree on Green Turtle and the Abaco Inn on Elbow Cay (dinner only). 2007 saw the opening of Salty's Fish Market in Hope Town where you can find all you want of this refreshing island treat.
The drinking water, that is another thing. In the Abaco Cays we drink it right out of the tap and have been doing so for 35 years with no problems. It is either sea water purified by reverse osmosis which includes most resorts, or it is filtered rain water. The Abaconian bottled water that is sold in the stores comes from the same source. Marina guests will pay a pretty hefty price for hooking into their R/O systems at upwards of 30 cents a gallon! Washing down your boat can be costly. Another item of note: Often, either because of lack of consumer interest or government banning of a product, these products find a home in third world countries. I'm not even trying to suggest even in the vaguest way that the Bahamas is third world, I am only asking why Coca-Cola uses Saccharin in Diet Coke in the Bahamas but not in the States. You know, that pink sweetener that once was labeled “causes cancer in lab animals”. - Just thought you'd want to know. Oh, at last check, harder to find Diet Pepsi does not contain Saccharin.
Abaco Restaurant Directory
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