Abaco - Flotsam & Jetsam
Tales & Narratives of island life and interesting experiences.
from Sandy Estabrook's Guide to the Abacos, Bahamas

Junkanoo  - Sea Lice  - Tales of Flight  - Tales of Salvage  - The Cruisers Net  - Island Roots Heritage Festival 
Who is Guy Fawkes?  - The Legendary Yahoe  - Ciguatera  - Two kinds of "Cakes"


The Cruisers Net





I've been using this old Standard Horizon HX150
for years. And it uses AA Batteries in a pinch.

    In the Abacos there is what is called "The Cruisers Net". It's an all volunteer radio broadcast on Marine VHF CH 68 every day at 8:15 AM. It is geared for the cruising yachtsman. (It's least active as you might expect during Aug. & Sept.). It's been described as a combination CNN, Weather Channel, Entertainment Tonight, Discovery Channel, e-mail forwarding service and emergency broadcast system all wrapped up in one.

The pleasant voice behind the microphone is Patti Toler who goes by the call sign "Blue Dolphin". She lives in Marsh Harbour and volunteered for the job in 1992 and has been at it's helm ever since. She does have substitutes a couple days a week who fill her shoes with the same efficiency.

Every morning it starts with the weather at 8:15 and repeats at 9:00 complements of BarometerBob.com. followed by the (free of charge) commercial announcements by the bars, restaurants, scuba folks, or anybody else that has an announcement of interest for visitors and yachtsmen. Here you will find out where the barbecues are and where the bands are playing etc. Following that there is a check in period for new arrivals and a departure period to say your good byes and or recruit a buddy boat. There is even a question period for new folks like YOURSELF using your VHF*. One might ask (as I heard one day) "what is the treatment for sea lice" (see below) or where can I buy some unusual product. The broadcast emanates from Marsh Harbour and is easily received on Man-O-War, Guana Cay, Elbow Cay (Hope Town) where I reached Patti with my hand held. Regrettably reception is poor on Green Turtle (30 miles to the north). Remember a handheld's "transmission" is only good for 2-3 miles and 10 to 15 miles using your rental boat's radio (if equipped).

*A marine VHF walkie talkie is the second item I pack after a flashlight. They can be purchased at marine supply stores in the states like Boat US and West Marine. Radio Protocol has assigned CH 16 for hailing and calling. Once contact is made one switches to another channel. In the Bahamas (not the US) it is usually Channel 11 ,12, 13 ,14, 15. 68, 69. Hailing a Marsh Harbour Taxi is on CH 06. Don't use other channels unless suggested by the local party as others are assigned to Search & Rescue, Fire Department etc. etc.

    As of 2007 the Cruisers Net began streaming their broadcast. It can be found at Out Island Internet (the WiFi Folks) then go to Audio Services. Added to your coffee, it's a fun way to warm up cold winter mornings. (Be patient and allow for some static before Audio stream starts.)

Chatting with Patti on one occasion, I asked a little about her past. In a nutshell, she grew up as a farmers daughter in Virginia, fell in love with sailing then fell in love with Bob. After Bob sold his flight simulator company, they sailed around the world. Their second love is the Greek islands. They got married at the Temple of Poseidon on Mykinos and lived there for a year before moving on and eventually winding up in the Abacos where they called home. It wasn't long before she volunteered for the cruisers net, followed by her husband Bob's weather station which became an integral part of the Cruisers Net. But sadly Bob, a friend to everybody who knew him, passed away in September of '07.

His legacy will remain,
the Abaco Weather Station baring his name,
BarometerBob.com.





Photo by Steve Dodge / White Sound Press
Taken at Sapodilly's, Marsh Harbour

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Tales of Salvage

...The night before, we heard of a boat that ran aground on one of the many reefs on the ocean side of Elbow Cay. Before departure we decided to do a little snorkeling in those reefs and saw the boat in question. It was a large catamaran from the Moorings charter company. I've always thought of a sailing vessel as the second most beautiful thing in the world next to a woman. It always saddens me to see a boat hung up in such a precarious position with it's mast at a 45 degree angle and knowing that on every move by the waves, a little more hull gets chewed up. My emotions were not unlike seeing a lady in distress. Salvage efforts were already underway who's outcome was undetermined as we left the beach.

On a more recent trip, I was sitting at the bar at the Bluff House enjoying the view chatting with some new friends when a "mayday" (distress call) came across the radio. "Mayday, mayday, this is Ocean 55 on a reef off Elbow Cay taking on loads of water". The conversation was brief with quick a come back as to his heading with relation to Hope Town's light house. At this point, I can add I had seen the boat in question when it was at Green Turtle. Fact is there were two Ocean Yachts on some kind of test or P.R./photo cruise. They were not yet commissioned and went by the name Ocean 42 and Ocean 55. Later on during a visit to Hope Town, I had heard the boat completely sunk, and keeping with island tradition the salvagers were out there stripping the boat the next morning of anything usable; like props rails etc. Everybody aboard was safely rescued but I'm sure the captain had some explaining to do. Which brings me to the following tale.

In the early days of these islands the native folks (loyalists that fled the revolution) supplemented their livelihood by wrecking, salvaging the cargo and gear from the ships often caught up on the many reefs that border these islands on the Atlantic side. One day the minister of the local church in Hope Town was giving his sermon when he looked out to sea and saw a boat heading for the reef. At a point in the service he asked everybody to close their eyes and bow their heads for a couple minutes of solemn meditation. At this point he removed his robe and headed out to the floundering ship as the first person on the scene has salvage rights. Naturally the congregation wasn't happy with their minister's actions and not only replaced him but passed a law that all churches would then have the seating arranged so the Ministers back would be to the sea. The church still stands today in Hope Town.

A more modern tale of salvage from the mid 1990's goes like this: Michael Malone of Marsh Harbour was diving about ten miles away at an old shipwreck near by at Lynard Cay. This is a place off the beaten track of the Florida cruising folks that pass by heading south. But it seems that only Mike knew of this particular ancient wreck told to him by his grandparents. Michael knew that this was an area where many boats met their doom. Most of the valuables had been picked over by generations of earlier Bahamians so he was surprised to find ingots, bullets and stone used as ballast in those old ships. Then to top his discovery he discovered a 2900 pound carronade, which is a short deck top cannon used in early times. He raised the cannon to the surface and brought home along with it's cannon balls. Once the sea growth was removed, he was surprised to see little deterioration of the metal despite being underwater for close to two century's. Further examination by scraping off it's black surface revealed it's true silver cast.

A similar situation applied to the cannon balls so he sent one of these to a metallurgist for analysis. Low and behold the cannon ball was made of an alloy consisting of 50% platinum! Later examination proved the cannon to contain 67% platinum. Tests performed by the British government sustained the claim. Further research determined it to be aboard the IRMELINDA a Scottish ship lost in the vicinity in 1811 and the gun to be made by Carron Ironworks of Sterling Scotland. Like most governments, The Bahamas lays claim to relics of this type found in its waters, in this case 25% of its value, which three different metallurgy laboratories was calculated to be 13 million dollars! By now we would expect Mr. Malone has received government approval to sell his cannon to a bona fide offer.


The above Carronade is similar to Malone's find. It is from Admiral Nelson's H.M.S. Victory, the world's oldest commissioned warship. Still manned by Officers and Ratings of the Royal Navy, the Victory has seen over 200 years of almost continuous service and best known for her role in the Battle of Trafalgar. It's berthed at Portsmouth, England and open to the public.

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Junkanoo

Junkanoo is a Bahamian national festival and exists only there. It is a kaleidoscope of color and sound, the latter being a blend of cow bells, goat skin drums and whistles accompanied sometimes by an array of brass instruments. Participants wear brilliantly colored costumes while dancing to the rhythm of the music. The music is generally more primitive as compared to that of Carnival as it lacks the steel drum (or pan music) associated with the Caribbean. It is in no way similar to music commonly known as Calypso or Soca. An audio sample can be found at our Bahamian Music Sampler.

Junkanoo is not to be confused with Carnival which is celebrated in the Caribbean Islands and Brazil and Mardi Gras, in French quarters. The latter has their basis in religion associated with Lent and Ash Wednesday. Junkanoo on the other hand is celebrated in the Bahamas on New Years Day and in some areas on Bahamian Independence day (July 10th). It is also sometimes celebrated on Boxing Day the day after Christmas when the servants who had to work preparing the Christmas dinner were presented with a "Box" or present.

Like Carnival, Junkanoo member groups vie for prizes which are awarded to those with the best costume, musical or dance performance. In the large cities Nassau Freeport etc., the competition is most serious. Costuming is a tedious process and demands tremendous skill. Understandably preparation is a closely guarded secret and starts the day after the prior years festivities. In the out islands and cays "Scrap Bands" as they are called might pop up during one of the aforementioned holidays and almost certainly on New Years Day. The groups represent a large cross section of the islands populace, black and white alike. Visitors are invited to join in the parade as I have done on occasion.

The New Year's Day theme is usually the same. An open coffin or wheel barrow as we have seen on Green Turtle, with an old witch like person (representing the year gone by) is wheeled down the parade route. At its end the coffin is draped then undraped revealing the new year in the form of a beautiful island maiden. If your schedule permits, you should include a Junkanoo holiday in your next trip the the Bahamas or stop by the Junkanoo Museum in Nassau which has on display prior years' costumes.

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The Green Turtle Heritage Festival.
A little something out of the ordinary.


The Green Turtle Heritage Festival was started by renowned local artist Alton Lowe in may of 2004. Its inaugural event was intended to stimulate interest in "Sister City" revitalization between New Plymouth, Green Turtle Cay, and Key West, Florida. Another objective is to renew appreciation of Bahamian heritage and culture. hence the name change to the Island Roots Heritage Festival in '06. It's a grand celebration including performances by the Royal Bahamas Police Force Marching & Pop Bands, colorful Junkanoo parades, and an evening concert featuring the Key West Chorale. In addition, there is a festival site, which will provide food and drinks, kids' games, art & crafts, historic booths and all day fun and native entertainment. As the entire community is considered historic, a map outlining sites of interest, will be available for walking tours. Scores of Key West natives traditionally book accommodations in preparation for the celebrations.

The intent of the event, was to establish a "Sister City" concept between historic New Plymouth where the Loyalist first settled in 1784 and Key West, where many Green Turtle Cay residents relocated in the ensuing 150 years. There is presently a rich Bahamian heritage celebrated also in Key West, referred to commonly as the "Conch Republic" and where those of Abaconian ancestry have a similar keen interest in forging closer ties with Green Turtle Cay, Abaco and the Bahamas.

In 2005 despite a devastating hurricane season the previous fall, the May festival ran for three days and grew even more almost doubling in size and drawing visitors from all over the Bahamas and the States. The ferry added extra trips through 11 PM.! New bands joined in including the new Green Turtle Marching Band which was formed only 6 months prior. In 2006 the celebrations continued and in 2007 they added and internet site including a "Schedule of Events" page which can be reached at islandrootsheritagefestival.com.

If you are planning a trip to the Abacos and more specifically Green Turtle Cay, in May, you might want to consider this event. But book early. Want to know more, just run a google search on "Green Turtle Island Roots & Heritage Festival".

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Who was
Guy Fawkes?
========================

Ladies and gentlemen you'll never grow fat,
If you don't put a penny in the old Guy's hat,
Guy, Guy, Guy!
Stick him up on high;
Hang him on a lamp post and leave him there to die.



Remember, remember
the fifth of November,
Gunpowder treason and plot.
We see no reason
Why gunpowder treason
Should ever be forgot!




  Celebrated in the Bahamas around November 5th, is the Hanging of Guy Fawkes. It's a cary over form the days when the Bahamas were a British Colony. So who is Guy Fawkes you ask?

Guy Fawkes, the most infamous conspirator of the "Gunpowder Plot", was a tall athletic man with brown hair and auburn beard, modest, self contained and valiant. In 1595 Guy Fawkes was present at the capture of Calais by the Spaniards and accordingly "was sought and admired by all the most distinguished in the camp for his nobility and virtue".

On the death of Elizabeth, Fawkes and Christopher Wright visited Philip III of Spain with a view to securing relief for their Catholic countrymen as James I, the Scottish king and Successor to Queen Elizabeth, turned out to be no less tolerant of the Catholics.

As a result Fawkes was selected to join the "Gunpowder Plot" by Robert Catesby on account of his military qualities and his face being unknown to the Government spies. They devised a plan to blow up the Houses of Parliament killing the King, possibly the Prince of Wales, and the Members of Parliament presumably in the belief that they would be replaced by a new monarch who might be more sympathetic to the Catholic cause. This they attempted to do in 1605.

The conspirators stored 36 barrels (almost 2 tons) of gunpowder, covered by iron bars and firewood, in a cellar hired by one of the group, just under the House of Lords. On 26th October, however, William Parker, 4th Baron Monteagle received an anonymous letter warning him not to attend the opening of parliament on November 5th. Hearing this, the conspirators were concerned that their plot had been discovered. However the information received by them over the following days convinced them that it was safe to continue with their plans.

In the early hours of November 5th the authorities stormed the cellar and found Guy Fawkes with the 36 barrels of gunpowder. He was immediately arrested and subsequently held captive in the Tower of London where he was tortured to reveal the names of his co-conspirators.

They were tried for high treason in Westminster Hall on 27th January 1606 and all were convicted and sentenced to death. The executions took place on 30th and 31st January, Fawkes being executed on the second day. All the conspirators were hanged, drawn and quartered which was the customary method of execution for traitors. Their heads and other parts of their bodies were displayed at various points around Westminster and London.

The occasion of that event is still celebrated in many past and present British colonies today including the Bahamas with appropriately fireworks, bonefires and other festivities. If you plan to be there over November 5th, check around you might happen upon such an event.

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Don't confuse Johnny Cake with Potcake
Two words you'll hear in the Abacos:

Johnny Cakes - Often song about, and often found in native restaurants in the Abacos and throughout the Caribbean for that matter. Johnny Cakes are bagel-sized biscuits made of corn meal and usually fried (sometimes called corn bread) . Legend has it that the name derives from "journey cake", meaning a bread that could be cooked ahead when going out to work or on a journey. For a Johnny Cake recipe click here.

Potcake - A "potcake" is the Bahamian term for the thick, congealed food that remains in the bottom of a pot of peas and rice after several reheatings. Traditionally, Bahamians feed potcake to the outdoor indigenous dogs that freely populate the Bahamas. Hence the dogs have come to be known as Potcakes. Potcakes have been interbreeding for generations and have come, with the exception of color to look alike and have similar docile personalities. Some devotees consider them to be a breed all to themselves.
Want to know more?



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S e a    L i c e

This addition is a result of our May 2005 trip and originally printed on my Abaco Update ‘05. I have heard for years about Sea Lice in the Bahamas. It's routinely discussed on the Cruisers Net. It causes an itching / burning sensation that can ruin your vacation causing what looks like small mosquito bites in the effected area which can last for a week or more. They aren't actually lice but the the larvae of the thimble jellyfish which find their way into bathing suits and wet suits and become trapped against the skin and sting. They are practically invisible in the water. Like I said, I've often heard of them but never had encountered any in my 32 years of going to the Abacos, till this year. Actually I didn't become infected by them but my girlfriend Debbie did, even though we always dove or swam in the same areas. Luckily as best as we can determine she didn't come in contact with them until the day before we flew home and her rash wasn't as bad as the victims picture below. Still, she was still scratching a week later. Looking into the matter upon our return, I concluded that in order to avoid this, ones bathing suit especially woman's one piece suit and divers wet suits should be replaced by a dry one as soon as you come out of the water. Debbie's misfortune as it turned out was that she happened to wear the only one piece bathing suit she had with her on the day she got stung. I also read that 1) you should stay away from floating seaweed and 2) there is a season for this affliction usually defined in the Bahamas as between Mothers Day and Fathers Day. All I can say in summary. It is not fun. The recommended treatments once printed here have been superseded by an e-mail I received in the fall of 2006.

IMPORTANT NOTE: Fall 2006, I received an email from an Abaco traveler who happened upon my website. He is Clinical Chemist & Biology Instructor with a personal experience in sea lice. On top of that he has a cheap solution to the problem.
Find out what Gregory Rawling has to say on sea lice.



These are the little critters that cause the what you see on the following pictures


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Ciguatera

...a name we hesitate mentioning for fear of scaring folks away from eating seafood (fish) in the Abacos. We can state we know of no one personally or even a friend of a friend that contracted Ciguatera but it does exist here and there from time to time in the Abacos. Every now and then it is mentioned on the Abaco board and forum. Simply put, Ciguatera is a unique type of food poisoning caused by the consumption of marine species that harbor natural toxins originating in certain tropical waters. But rather than go into it in great detail here check out Clemson.edu if you want to know more.

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Tales of Flight

A couple of my experiences:
This was back in the 80's.
Once during a take off at the Treasure Cay Airport, the pilot abruptly aborted takeoff, turned around and repositioned himself for another try. Since I was sitting right behind him, I asked what happened? He simply replied, he didn't like the sound of one of the engines and proceeded to take off again.

A month after 911, We flew over for a week taking advantage of the discounted rates. While at the Green Turtle Club, we befriended a Canadian couple who happened to be on our return flight. He nodded to the pilot and asked, "Aren't you the pilot that flew us over last week?" The pilot remembered him and their conversation and the fact that the Canadian fellow was also a pilot. The pilot invited him to the copilot's seat and asked if he'd like to take the stick after take off. "Absolutely he'd be happy to" was the reply.

Then there is this cute tale told to me first hand; back in the 70's, arriving late on a private plane at Treasure Cay Airport, this gentleman and his wife not finding anybody of authority, hailed a cab. Both worried about having not clearing customs stated that to the driver. He said not to worry and drove them back to the airport. Asked for their passports, took them inside and stamped them. He later informed them, his brother was the customs man and he has a key to the office. - No Problem Mon!

2005 saw this one: My sister and her husband were returning on Continental which took them from Marsh Harbour to Ft. Lauderdale connecting to Phila. As it were, there was a delay of another Continental flight to Palm Beach which was supposed to arrive and depart prior to theirs. Well, theirs being the only Continental plane, ground crew loaded both the Lauderdale and Palm Beach baggage in the same plane. Shortly after take off, this mistake was realized and my sisters flight was called back to Marsh Harbour for the unloading of the misplaced baggage. They took off again, luckily in time to make her connection.

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Environmental change witnessed


During the mid 80's while the Green Turtle was under going a face lift, I was witness to environmental changes first hand. I'm not speaking of an oil spill or anything like that. It's just a small tale but disconcerting just the same. The club decided to spruce up the grounds a little around the docks. One day while I was sitting on the deck enjoying my Tipsy Turtle, I saw a barge pull in with pallets of sod. When I inquired do they grow such a commodity in the Bahamas, I was told no that this came directly from Florida. During a visit the following year, while standing on the new lawn, I discovered fire ants. After checking I was told there had never been any fire ants on Green Turtle Cay. By 2000, they are on every cay.

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Early Trip Remembrances - Stories





 

  On my very first trip to the Bahamas back in '73 at the Green Turtle Club, our room, a pool side villa was up on a small hill and afforded us a lovely view down the harbour of White Sound. It wasn't long that we got to know our neighbors in the villa next door. A vacationing couple from Doylestown Pa, were vacationing their for their first time also. The wife was an avid shell collector and had all sorts of beautiful specimens spread out and drying on her patio. It was quite a site to behold, there were dozens of all sizes and shapes.

A few days later our neighbor inquired of us, "How on such a lovely island hideaway could somebody steal her shells"? And asked "if we had seen anyone?" We had not. She added, "this has been going on for a couple nights now, and believe it or not they often leave less attractive shell in it's place. We found this hard to believe so we suggested setting a trap.

A couple hours after sunset around 11 o'clock the first thief showed up, then another and another. A whole parade of hermit crabs came looking for their new home. The island was then abundant with hermit crabs (back then), and as you might be aware, they out grow their borrowed shell homes and have to look for another. Our neighbors patio, as it turned out, happened to be the best used shell dealer on the island. Well, the problem was easily remedied and the crabs had to look elsewhere

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Back in the 80's as it happened, Heidi and Klaus would fly all the way from Germany to spend a week diving with Brendal. It was an annual event for them and we'd often be there at the same time.

On one of those occasions we had adjoining harbourside villas. I looked over to see Klaus dipping bread into rum and throwing pieces to the seagulls. Often they'd catch the tiny morsels in the air.

Well it wasn't long before we had our own private air show with the seagulls doing all sorts of loops and dives and even bumping into one another. It was a sight to behold leaving us with a belly ache for having laughed so much. I tried it myself on another visit with little success. Maybe I was using the wrong kind of rum?

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Artist rendering of one spotted on Lubbers Cay in 1996.
© Rebecca Bielinski. Mues de Palma

 

The Island of Andros is said to be the home of Yahoe (pronounced ya-hoo-ee and not to be pronounced as a popular internet browser). In some locations it's called Chickcharnies. In recent times a pair has been spotted on Lubbers Quarters in the Abacos. and often in association with a "Lady Night Elf."

The Yahoe an elfin, flightless birdlike creatures stand about 3.5 - 4 feet tall and have piercing red eyes, They have four fingers and the interesting thing is they have only one forward toe with three facing backwards. It has and a monkey like tail, which they use to hang from trees. Yahoe or Chickcharnies live in the thickets and treed areas and build nests by joining trees together at the top. It has an unearthly cry heard at night when all good children are supposed to be in bed.

When searching for one, carry flowers or bright bits of cloth with you to charm these mischievous creatures. The Yahoe is said to be generally peaceful when left unmolested. Legend says if you see a Yahoe and show it respect, you'll be blessed with good luck for the rest of your life. Be careful not to sneer at it, however, or your head will turn completely around! It has also been known to kidnap people, not releasing them until after they have eaten a bunch of green bananas or sapodillas.

Billy Bowleg, the great Seminole medicine man is said to have been adopted and trained by the Chickcharnies. They took him at the age of 14 and kept him for five years. When he returned to this people his reputation as a healer spread throughout the Bahamas.

The Yahoe are often accompanied by what has been described as a shy Lady Night Elf and can often be seen together. Little is know about this demure fairy like nymph shown here, although some speculate her breading with an, as of yet unknown creature, produces the Yahoe.

Named after the Yahoe was a popular watering hole on Lubbers Quarters. Some say the bar attracted too much attention to the otherwise diminutive creatures resulting the the destruction of the bar bearing their name. Others say it was destroyed by Hurricane Floyd. In any case, there hasn't been any sighted on Lubbers since the turn of the century.



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