Click to Enlarge All Pictures



Debbie & Sandy at West End en-route to G.T.


The Resort at Spanish Cay


Green Turtle Cay (by Harry Walden)


New Plymouth


New Plymouth


New Plymouth


M i s s   E m i l y ' s


McIntosh Restaurant & Bakery


The Wrecking Tree Restaurant

Spring/Summer '07 - Update
Boat Rentals & Chartering
Air Carriers & Ferries
Weather & Hurricanes
Accommodations & Services
Bahamian Music Sampler
Abaco Art & Artisans
Abaco Reading
Sandy's Abaco - a Poem
Green Turtle Slide Show
Hope Town Slide Show
My Early Days in Abaco
Food Drink & Bartenders
On Bahamian Queen Conch
Portrait of Abaco Cay Homes
Flotsam & Jetsam - curious tales
Vacation Stories
Abaco Fun Links & Blogs
Satellite View of the Abacos
20" Wid e - Screen - Version
Wires Wires - Photographers Tip
Complete Index of this Website.

AbacoChristmas.com
Abaco Site Search.

  
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New Plymouth - View From Hill


Green Turtle Cottage


Green Turtle Beach Home


Green Turtle Club


Green Turtle Club


Green Turtle Club Villas


Bluff House & Villas


Drag curser over picture. Click for your own Widget.
Regarding this clever graphic, it is not intended to indicate an over abundance of sharks in the Abacos. See a larger version on our Snorkeling page.


Kevin the Main Man of the Gully Roosters


View From Pineapples


North Manjack Cay


Brendal (& Mary)


Debbie & Mimi &The Wild Abaco Barbs


google ad space


Blue Hole near Treasure Cay*


Guana Cay Path


Fresh produce & souvenirs at Milo's


Nippers


Nippers Payloader


Photo Shoot at Nippers


Man-O-War Home


Man-O-War Home


Man-O-War Resident*


Canvas Shop Lady (Man-O-War)


Hope Town (by Harry Walden)


Abacos other Lighthouse*


Hope Town Home


Hope Town Home


Hope Town Home


Butterfly House (H.T.H.L.)


Hope Town Harbour Lodge Pool Entrance


H.T.H. L. Pool & Bar


Hope Town Path


Hope Town Path


View From H.T. Light house


Abaco Inn Pool


Cabin No. 5 - Abaco Inn


Cracker P's (Lubbers Quarters)


View From Cracker P's


Tahiti Beach


Tahiti Beach


Pete's Little Harbour Foundry


Pete's Pub Painting


At Pete's


Marsh Harbour Scene


Marsh Harbour Scene


Hope Town Scene


Hope Town Scene


Island Fisherman


Island Way of Life - Just ask Kenny


The Destination


The Newspaper


The Magazine


The Journal


The Board


The Forum


The Phone Directory


Just as it Says


Awe-inspiring Abaco Aerial Photography



LISTEN TO BAHAMIAN MUSIC


These Chairs are Reserved for You
More Chairs!



The way home (in case you get lost).


Abaco Sign Poster 26 X 36, How many will you see?



Thank You



Columbus Bicentennial Commemorative Tag



Any RV'ers out there?
You might be interested in a couple of our other websites.

Wilson on the Lake

Daisy Barn Camp Ground



















































 







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Green Turtle Club - White Sound


New Plymouth from Bluff House - Treasure Cay in the distance (by Mary Shipman)


Nippers Beach- Great Guana Cay


Man-O-War Cay, Click pict to enlarge, Click here for more aerial photos

Hope Town Light House


View from the Abaco Inn Bar

No Man is an Island* the saying does go, but who is he who doesn't dream so.
This man searched far and wide to and fro, till he chose his island escape called Abaco.

-  M y   A b a c o   G u i d e  -
(The Origional Internet Guide)
by Sandy Estabrook

Information, Tales and Anecdotes of 35 years visiting the Abacos.
Especially geared for the First Time Visitor and including,
Lodging, Accommodations and Services.
It's being updated all the time with a major update each summer.


(The Short Version)

  Green Turtle Cay  -   Treasure Cay  -   Great Guana Cay  -   Man O War Cay  -   Marsh Harbour  -   Elbow Cay (Hope Town)  -   Places South  -   The Big Island 

I have been vacationing in The Abacos almost annually since 1973. (Map in Relation to U.S.) That was just months prior to their independence from Great Britain. In early years we stayed almost exclusively on Green Turtle Cay. In recent times we have spent more on Elbow Cay (Hope Town). And, moving to Florida in 1990 afforded us seeing all the Abaco Cays the way they should be seen, aboard my boat Motu Iti. All of the Cays will be covered here all be it some are difficult to get to. Therefore we will be putting the emphasis on Green Turtle Cay and the Cays to its south including Elbow Cay (Hope Town) all the way down to Little Harbour. These cays are all easily accessible for the fly-in traveler via Marsh Harbour or Treasure Cay airports and for which this site is intended. Once you arrive, it's just a short taxi ride and then either a water taxi (ferry) or boat rental will be required to get to these outlying cays. Note: For those who want to head off the beaten path check our 2007 Update which we covered the "Big Island" of Abaco from top to bottom including it's remote settlements, Blue Holes and Wild Abaco Horses. All the photos on this and our other pages are by the author unless indicated otherwise and all have been taken post 9/11. Before we get started some general information.

As mentioned this site is intended for the fly-in vacationer. However for the cruising yachtsman we've added a page of useful links relating to
Cruising the Abacos. Most are by Abaconians and regular visitors.

Two very useful forums on the Abacos exist for specific questions you may have: The oldest is
Abaco's Community Message Board. It been around since 1996. Ten years later in 2006, due to what some call over zealous moderation of the ACMB, a new forum was spawned called simply, "The Abaco Forum", where an negative reply to a posted question about a business is tolerated. Either one is a great gathering area for newcomers to post their inquiries.

Renting a boat when visiting the Cays: It's a must. The Abaconian waters are the appeal to this part of the world. You'll want to explore the beauty of uninhabited island beaches for some frolicking fun, fishing, picnicking, snorkeling, beach combing etc. etc. There are easily attainable islands where you can feel like the only people in the world. Then there are the out island watering holes - great places to meet new friends and end a day on the water with a goombay or Kalik,

When we fly over for a week or two, I wont go unless a boat is available. If economics prevent this, rent a boat for at least part of the time or what you can afford. You wont regret it - weather permitting of course. Be sure to read our page
On Boat rentals & Chartering


North Pelican Cay - South of Tiloo Cay (photo by "FlatFish")

The magic word here is POLARIZED. So, get yourself a pair of Polarized Sunglasses. They remove glare and reflection accentuating the turquoise green and blue of the Abaco waters. And their through water penetration is amazing. If you are like myself and use glasses to read, you might want to consider a pair of polarized glasses with readers on the bottom and no magnification on the top. Perfect for reading on the beach or looking at a chart in a boat. Some brands that come to mind are Renegade, ONO's and Scojo. Check with L.L.Bean, Wallmart or do a Google Search, IÕve been using a bifocal of this type for 15 years. You might also want to also consider a polarized filter on your camera if it's threaded for filters. Your photos will then turn out like those fantastic tropical pictures we see in travel magazines.

I almost hate to bring this up because to me, it's contrary to why one goes to the Abacos. The Abacos are a place to disconnect and unwind but I've been asked. "Is there cell phone service in the Abacos?" And what about the internet? The answer is yes to both however your American cell service might not work. You'll have to check with your carrier. And yes there is Wi Fi, a plethora of hot spots and even internet Cafes. For details check Out Island Internet or CoconutTelegraph. Also many resorts offer an on premises computer terminal for guests. Still with all this technology available, you'll be hard pressed to find a telephone or TV in your room. Lastly if you must bring your lap top, here is just the excuse you'll need.

In leu of the above, another very practical item is we always bring is a marine VHF walkie talkie. It's fun and invaluable tool for use in making a dinner reservation, booking a golf cart or boat rental, ferry or for hailing a taxi in Marsh Harbour. Even listening to the island chit chat is fun. More importantly, you'll be able to listen to the Cruisers Net on CH 68 every day at 8:15 for a broadcast of the island happenings and weather, and even a period for you to ask a question. A marine VHF walkie talkie can be purchased at marine supply stores in the states like Boat US and West Marine. Be sure to get one that uses AA batteries. More info on the Cruisers Net and VHF protocol can be found on our
Flotsam & Jetsam page.

Thinking about going? Not sure of things? Figure you might get lost in your rental boat? Better than the usual travel guide, get yourself a copy of the Cruising Guide to the Abacos. It's another must. It's authored by state side professor and Elbow Cay resident, Steve Dodge. (His house was one of many that blew into the sea during hurricane Floyd a few years back) The Guide, although geared to the cruising folks, it's jam packed with useful info not found in any Fodor's or Frommer's etc. It's colorful and so inviting. Every nook and cranny is mentioned including many not covered here, and it's updated annually, It also has a "yellow Pages" listing of services, shops, restaurants, fishing and diving guides etc etc. In 2005 this popular guide became spiral bound for more convenient use when traveling. You can get a copy at BoatUS or West Marine or directly at the publisher White Sound Press. Spring of 2007 saw the first printing of the new biannual publication Destination Abaco. It's loaded with all the info you need in a convenient carry about size. You'll see it in shops, and hotels


The Abaco Cays......

have been called Out Islands, Family Islands and the Friendly Islands all of which definitely apply. Here you will find friendly folks, a relatively booming economy with none of hustles and hustlers of fast paced Nassau, Paradise Island and Freeport. Evenings are spent with the boating folks who often return. Some settle in these parts for a season. Or as the Barefoot Man puts it in one of his songs they've come to "harbournate". The native population is as friendly as can be. The Abacos are truly a homogeneous little spot in the world.

At this point, I should mention that this critique follows the same north to south direction one usually takes from Florida by boat. The Cays start in the north at Walkers Cay working their way 100 miles or so down to Little Harbour. For the most part they parallel the Island of Great Abaco and can be thought of as barrier islands as they are what separate the Atlantic from the shallow Sea of Abaco and Mainland Abaco. Unlike the classical sandy barrier islands of the eastern US, here they consist of limestone with some elevation and are protected on the ocean side by the third largest barrier reef in the world. For the most part the cays are green with mangrove and white sand beaches. Most are uninhabited.

The ocean side of these cays are littered with coral reefs where you will find some of the best snorkeling and diving anywhere. And it's only 180 miles from Florida's mainland. The Florida Keys cant even come close and shouldn't even be mentioned in the same conversation. A word of caution: Making passage from Abaco Sound to the ocean between the cays to these diving spots is a bit tricky if not impossible in most areas. Use one of the guides mentioned here under each island. And even if you are an experienced diver, it is not recommended you take a rental boat to the ocean reefs without local knowledge. There are plenty of spots to dive without risk that will be covered later. Likewise the fishing is spectacular, as good as anywhere, even compared to those Caribbean hot spots of Grand Cayman and Belize.

On Fishing: In 2007 due to over fishing, the Bahamian Government saw to it to do some serious tightening of their fishing regulations ( found here). And as for fishing in the Abaco waters you might want to check Dr. Ralph Page on Fishing in Abaco. Inshore, offshore, bonefishing, they're all covered. Divers and snorkelers may want to read about sea lice in our Flotsam & Jetsam page.


For more on diving try: Snorkeling in Abaco - Go-Abacos Dive Site - Abaco Reef Mooring Buoys - Green Turtle Cay Project.

North Abaco Cays:

Walker's Cay - NOTE: What you are about to read is past tense. As a result of fall 2004's devastating hurricane season, the resort on Walkers has remained closed. Is still for sale despite repeated rumors of new ownership. You can be sure, we'll be on top of the situation should it change. Walkers Cay is the northern most tip of the Abaco Cays and is strictly a sport fishing and diving resort with it's own operating air strip with flights to the U.S. You may also clear customs here. The Walkers Cay Resort stands high on the cay with a magnificent views west and south. It is basically the only thing on the island. Walkers provides guest rooms, restaurant and bar and a large pool. This is of course in addition to the marina and dive shop. It's reputation is world wide. Many sport fisherman keep their yachts berthed there and fly in for a weekend of fishing fun. There are numerous tournaments here through out the year. The Island was originally developed by Robert H. Abplanal the inventor of the "clog-free" spray valve used in today's aerosol spray cans - sort of a W.H. HooverÕs of his time. You may have seen the "Walker's Cay Chronicles" on ESPN2.

Walker's Cay native workers live on the adjacent island of Grand Cay who's main (and only) attraction is "Rosie's Place", which is still open. Here I once had his (Rosie is a He) famous combo of Cracked Conch, Turtle Steak, Lobster Tail and Grilled Grouper. Rosie still provides a small full service marina and air conditioned rooms in addition to his famous eatery. There realy no way go get here without your own boat or fly in to Walkers. Some of you may remember this was the island of choice of President Nixon. He often came here for a little R&R with his pal, Bebe Rebozza.

From the log of Motu Iti 1992 (29' Phoenix):
..... My first trip to the Bahamas by boat took us from Longboat Key to Ft. Myers then east up the Caloosahatchie River to Lake Okeechobee and Clewiston on its southern perimeter. The ride up the Caloosahatchie and its three locks was truly a pleasant and picturesque surprise. We were surrounded on both sides with beautiful homes and cattle ranches punctuated by sugar cane fields . In addition there is an occasional small marina with fuel dock along the way. Local folks were often seen sitting on the river bank fishing with bamboo poles. As we approached the lake those low and fast bass boats started popping up. The west side of the lake as it turned out is definitely the most picturesque part of the waterway.
We arrived at the lake at Moorehaven. From there we took the perimeter canal to Clewiston and the Rolland Martin Marina and spent the night. We woke early and waited for the faintest hint of the sun before we started the engines. The lake was flat, and I mean flat with a slight mist rising. The sun was rising ahead slightly to starboard. It was a most glorious morning yet a bit eerie especially when you see a sunken ship sticking out of the water, out there in the middle of nowhere. By mid morning we were heading down the St. Lucie River to Stuart. From there we decided to head outside in the Atlantic for our trek south to the Sailfish Marina at the Lake Worth Inlet.
At the Sailfish Marina, it was my intention to hang out at the bar in the evening and inquire of anybody making passage to West End in the morning- no luck. So the next morning we passed through the Lake Worth inlet by ourselves, precisely at 6 AM. Both my GPS and Loran confirmed the same heading. This was to be my only trip using Loran since GPS was rapidly replacing this older and less accurate technology.
About an hour out, we started overtaking a fleet of four trawlers who left earlier. A half hour after that, we started to notice the first boats coming in the opposite direction confirming the fact my heading was on course- a good feeling. Understand folks make this 54 nautical mile trip regularly. It's usually no big deal in relatively nice weather but this was my first crossing and there is no time like the first time. It was not unlike your first kiss; if all goes well a memory to be cherished.
Then, low and behold, there it was rising out of the horizon, the West End water tower. What an exhilarating feeling, a lilliputian version of Columbus' arrival on San Salvadore. Just off shore we hoisted our yellow quarantine flag and slipped in to the (old) Jack Tar Marina and customs at exactly 9:00 AM. It took us just three hours and 88 gallons from Palm Beach.


Working southward from Walkers, you will pass a half a dozen or so large uninhabited cays with the names of Double Breasted, Stranger, Carter and Allen-Pensacola. Most have their own protected and secluded spots where you will always find a few boats anchored. Lying between them and on the Atlantic side are some of the most beautiful coral reefs you'll find in the Atlantic. Shooting up from the depths one can find reefs in waters from 6 to 200+ feet. There are reefs for snorkelers to the experienced diver. There is even a network of well maintained and protected underwater parks with mooring buoys for visiting boaters. It's truly a divers paradise and a well kept secret. Just remember the warning already passed along above; Because of these reefs, passage between these cays and the fishing grounds outside can only be made at a few select locations and with local knowledge. Every year I hear of boats going down. I'll say no more.

Spanish Cay:

... is the next of the outlying cays heading south from Grand Cay that has any populace and those folks are those attached with the resort there. Like Walkers, Spanish is a point of entry with operating airstrip and customs. There is a fine large marina attached to the "Resort at Spanish Cay." The resort has been under current ownership since 1999, gone thru a couple of hurricanes and undergone a major overhaul including brand new docks. As part of the renovation in 2001 they've added tennis courts a new air conditioned restaurant and game room/bar overlooking the fresh water swimming pool and the sea of Abaco. They claim three lovely beaches and golf carts are available to explore the island. If peace and quiet is what you are looking for, this is the place. Of course snorkeling, fishing and shelling are always available. Throw in a good book and a Pina Colada from their bar and your in business. Note: the Resort at Spanish Cay is only opened in season.

An earlier owner of the island, Clint Murchison who owned the Dallas Cowboys, removed the Casuarina's (Australian Pines) which have all but undermined the natural foliage of this and other islands. Instead he replanted the island with thousands of coconut palms and other indigenous tropical trees. In this regard parts of the island are reminiscent of the south pacific. Although I cant say for sure, I suspect those new plantings as they were, many of them berry producing, attract the many types of birds that we've noticed only on this island as compared to other cays.

Across from Spanish Cay on Abaco's mainland and 42 Miles from Marsh Harbour (half that to Treasure Cay) is the settlement of Coopers Town. It's about a $40 taxi tide from Treasure. The government dock is where you'd pick up a ferry to Spanish Cay. Unfortunately there are only two scheduled, early morning and late afternoon and primarily intended for the resorts day workers. A charter if about $200. So it looks like a late arrival and early departure is the only way to go. Call them on this in any case.

Coopers Town, more importantly houses the government offices and is the seat of the commissioner for northern Abaco. There is a restaurant a gas station and a couple shops. Visiting by boat might be difficult at its docks are on the open bay and get regularly mutilated by storms. Coopers Town is also the home of the past prime minister / commissioner / again prime minister (as of 5/07) Hubert Ingraham. A celebrity of note from this area is Sevatheda Fynes, a gold medal member of the Bahamas Olympic Relay Team at the 2000 Olympics in Sydney.

Green Turtle Cay:


Treasure Cay Ferry Dock (to Green Turtle)

The next cay you come to with any population (20 Miles south of Spanish Cay) and where it all started for me, is Green Turtle Cay (See Map). (Aerial) It is the island that we spent our early days almost exclusively. Things have changed a lot in my 35+ years. During those early trips we would take our kids. It was a great place when they were growing up. They were both good swimmers so we didn't have to worry about a thing. They could run around all they wanted, as kids still can today. Green Turtle and it's Village of New Plymouth was originally settled by the loyalists in the 1770's. The quaint brightly colored picturesque village can be walked in less than 10 minutes end to end or about two hours covering all the side streets and stopping in every store including a having a drink at Miss Emily's. Finding any of the named places in this guide is as easy as asking somebody in the street and then it wont be more that 5 minutes from where you're standing.

Lobstering and tourism are the main industries of the island today. The village serves most of the needs of the Islanders. There are hardware, gift and food markets in New Plymouth albeit a bit pricey. Merchandise is often shipped to Marsh Harbour via Nassau or from the states. This plus a hefty duty on many items makes things a bit costly. Occasionally a doctor sets up practice as was the case in 1999 but there just was not enough "business" to keep her there. In the 70's there had been a resident doctor on Green Turtle for some time and who covered the cays with his own plane. The then Dr. Meldelson was also known his many crash landings. The runway on G.T. is now over grown . Today you will find a clinic with a nurse. For anything more serious you'll have to go to Marsh Harbour or Florida. Be sure to stop by for a visit to the Albert Lowe Museum for a peak at the settlements earlier times. You'll also find here beautifully crafted model ships built by late Mr. Lowe and art works by his renowned son Alton. Alton has a gallery in his lovely home. It's a 15 minute walk on the other side of the settlements big hill. For more information see Abaco Art. Other points of interest is the Loyalist Memorial Sculpture Garden featuring Bronze busts of many of the influential folks of days gone bye. It's in the middle of town, you cant miss it. Then there is the "Richard (Blue) Jones" Bahamian Bush Medicine Garden. Blue is Lincoln's brother and early in 2008 put together a herbal medicine garden typical of earlier times in the Abacos

Every year in May is the annual Annual Green Turtle Heritage Festival. The well received intent of the event was to establish a "Sister City" concept between historic Green Turtle Cay (New Plymouth) where the Loyalist first settled in 1784 and Key West, Florida, where many Green Turtle Cay residents relocated in the ensuing 150 years. So if you are planning a trip to the Abacos and more specifically Green Turtle Cay, you might want to consider this event. But book early. Want to know more go to Flotsam & Jetsam.

Access to New Plymouth and Green Turtle Cay in general, is of course only by ferry (the "BOLO"). Neigel, Larry or Curtis will probably be your captain. The BOLO runs from anywhere on the island to a dock on the mainland serving the airport (by land Taxi) at Treasure Cay. Connecting commuter flights here are to Miami, West Palm Beach, Ft. Lauderdale, Melbourne and Nassau.

New Plymouth lies on the western side of settlement harbour. Here there are a half a dozen restaurants in town. The once lovely and quaint turn of the century New Plymouth Inn, reminiscent of Bogey and Bacall, opened briefly in 2007 and closed shortly their after. It has one of the most romantic restaurants in all the islands. In it's prime, it would have been an inspirational place for playwrights, novelists and poets. Once again as of spring 2008 we hear it has reopened. This supported by a article in the current Abaco Life featuring Vernal Cooper's return as cook. Hopefully this time it will remain open and return to those days of old. It's all up to Wally. their, a bit eccentric, long time owner. It's location in the middle of New Plymouth, away from beaches and marinas. probably has something to do with their past difficulties.

For native dinning there is always the "Wrecking Tree" and "Macintosh's Bakery & Restaurant". It's on the street going up the hill to Roosters. Then there is everybody's all time favorite "Laura's (carbohydrate) Kitchen". You'll find it just up the street from the town dock. Here you will get your plate piled high with food for a reasonable price. A reservation is strongly suggested. Finally there is Mikes Bar & Restaurant, now called Mikes Sundowner. Mike's has been and on again off again place but recently caught on again. It's right on the water facing Abaco Sea. Like so many others their schedule is sporadic. Mike's mom lives across the street and will open for any reservations. You can hail them all your VHF. On the "bottom" of the main street next to the freight dock is Plymouth Rock Bar, Restaurant, Liquor and cigar store. A trendy newer restaurant in town is Pineapples Bar & Grill. It has a great pool for luncheon and dinner guests and on occasion has live music in the evening. It is located on the eastern side of Settlement Harbour located at and part of the Other Shore Club and Marina on Black Sound which also has cottages for rent. Give them a call on your VHF. The newest restaurant is HarveyÕs Island Grill on the harbour side of town. We hear their salads are good and no alcohol is served. For first class dining, (asside from the NPI if open) you'll have to head out to the resorts at the other end of the cay. More about them coming up.

For decades the favorite night spot for the visiting yachtsman has been "Miss Emily's Blue Bee Bar". She was the originator of the Bahamian national drink - the Goombay Smash. Sadly, Miss Emily passed away in 1997 but the traditions of her "establishment" are now being run by her daughter Violet. She told us on our 2007 trip that she'll soon open a restaurant on the premises and reflected by the newly painted and tiled room. Look for our report in our 2008 update. Just next door is "Bert's Sea Garden". which opens as the mood dictates but usually in the evenings and especially on weekends. Oh, Bert passed away too, and was last being run by his partner and past town constable. Now we come to the Island's hot spot, the "Roosters Rest" where on Saturday you can find Kevin and the Gully Roosters playing Reggae and Soca (Calypso). Recently they had been closed for alterations so check first. In any case the band can be found playing at the Bluff House or Green Turtle Club on a regular basis.




Cottage rentals are available not far from New Plymouth. A few names that come to mind are Linton's Cottages and Long Bay House which are near beaches and close to town. Then there's Roberts Cottages on Black Sound. Still others Like Coco Bay Cottages can be found at the more pristine north end of the island. An Agency dealing with rental homes is Abaco Island Rentals. Still more can be found listed in the classified of yachting and travel magazines. Still more can be found on our recently added a page of Accommodations and Services which is updated regularly.

On the north end of Green Turtle Cay on White Sound, you will find The Green Turtle Club and the Bluff House. There had been a long standing rivalry between them as the managing owners of each are sisters (and their husbands). Seems even in paradise there are family feuds. But in 2005 the Green Turtle Club was sold ending the family ownership I've known since my first visit in 1973.

Both "The Bluff" and "The Club" have first class restaurants, comparable to state side dining. For dinner there are usually five or six dishes to choose from, and you order your entree at reservation time. The Bluff House wins the fantastic view award from it's hill top restaurant bar and pool. It's definitely worth a visit and a dinner even if staying elsewhere. The Club's restaurant is adjacent to their Tipsy Bar and steps from the marina. Just up the hill and opened for lunch, is the Clubs pool side snack bar offering the usual island fare.

The Bluff has in recent times made some serious improvements to it's facilities including the marina, all of which were destroyed by the hurricanes of 2004 and were up any running by the time of our visit in '05. The Bluff House has two restaurants , an informal dockside restaurant called the Jolly Roger Bar and Bistro, presided over by the ever jovial Vern. And as mentioned another in the dinning room at the Bluff House hill top. The Buff House offers guest rooms overlooking the Sea of Abaco and villas overlooking sailboats at anchorage in White Sound.

Each resort has a marina, and rooms and villas for rent. The Club, however has cottages right on the water where you can tie up a small boat as we often do. The Bluff has elevated seaside cottages with a great view of the Sea of Abaco. This writer finds the Club a little more upbeat and an easier location to get to and from, and explore the north end and its beaches. Add to this the fact that the recently paved town road ends at the Club. Also the Club is within a 10 minute walk to a lovely bay beach at Coco Bay and 20 minute walk to a beautiful stretch of ocean beach with all the diving and snorkeling you may want. Add another 15 minutes to each if walking from the Bluff house.

Since the arrival of this road, you might want to use land transportation to get around. The local Hertz is actually a rent a cart. Three that come to mind are, Donny & Giselle McIntosh's D&P Cart Rentals 242-365-4655, Mary and Leonard Lowe's Island Roadrunners 242-365-4160, And finally, just celebrating their 10th anniversary, is Sea Side Cart Rentals 242-365-4147. Their office is located at the next dock east of ferry dock in New Plymouth (boats can use the dock). Ted Murray is the friendly and efficient daily manager.Ê Another alternative is if you choose is Omri's on again - off again Taxi. Again, all can be reached using your Marine Radio and calling on 16. If all else fails just get out to the road and stick your thumb out, the old fashioned way. You needn't fear and its guaranteed to work.

The Green Turtle Club Bar is a typical island haunt with dollar bills and boaters burgess and ensigns tacked to the ceiling. It's lively spot hosted by the ever smiling Debbie. She has been there for over 20 years and is truly everybody's best friend. She or Julie will gladly whip you up a great "Tipsy Turtle" (which will do the job for which it is intended). You can find my Burgee hanging there. The Green Turtle Club Bar has long been a favorite stop over for the cruising yachtsman and private pilots alike. Often the nights are spent in conversation with them and of their travels. One night a week the Gully Roosters come over from town (with half the population) to play at the club. The Roosters have been around for years. They call themselves "The No.1 Band in the Nation". Fact is, for years the Green Turtle's own Gully Roosters are the only full time Band in the Abacos but that all changed in 2006. More later.

At this point we have to mention our friend of 28 years, Brendal Stevens. I'd call him the unofficial Ambassador of the Goombay Spirit. He once entertained at the Club bar with his one man band and ran the clubs dive shop for many years. Eventually he married his wife Mary and with her full time assistance, in '97 they opened their own dive shop adjacent to the Green Turtle Club. He is very popular and attracts divers from all over the world. In 2006 he won the prestigious Bahamian "Cacique" Award for sustainable tourism. As far as diving goes, Brendal can take you on any type dive you want, however our favorite is the day trip where he will catch your lunch and cook it for you on an uninhabited beach. Depending on the season, it will be lobster or grouper, with conch salad and his special punch. You may have seen Brendal featuring this picnic on the cooking channel and his diving adventures on ESPN. If you'd prefer a fishing picnic, some of the fishing guides provide the same thing: Lincoln Jones is one that comes to mind. He can be reached by VHF radio. If sport fishing is your thing, whether it be inshore bonefishing to offshore game or reef fishing contact the Sawyers, a family of fishing guides (Ronnie or Rick). Any and all of them can take you any type of fishing you like. Just hail them on your VHF channel 16.

Editors Note: I mentioned this to management last year but the situation still remains the same as of 2007. There is no cooperation between the resorts on Green Turtle Cay. If you want to have dinner other than where you are staying, you'll have to hike in the dark or rent a golf cart. And if you want to go to New Plymouth, there is only a single 2 hour day trip available. This situation unheard of on Elbow Cay.




Exploring the neighbors. There are three boat rental companies on Green Turtle Cay. The oldest is Donnie Sawyer's who's boats are usually beat up a bit yet seem somehow to always work. A 15-17 footer is all you'll need to get to Green Turtle's adjacent cays, assuming typical summer type weather. (More on boat rentals). To the north is Manjack or Nunjack as it is sometimes called (See Map). At it's northern end you will find the quintessential crescent white sand beach one only dreams about. At it's southern end two smaller cays Crab & Fiddle seem to have broken away from Manjack. It's hard to notice their separation until up close. They make for interesting exploration and have beautiful beaches. The northern end of Fiddle has a great beach and is a short hop from G.T. We often go there and wade the pass between Fiddle and Crab Cay. You'll see its beautiful white sandbar upon approach. But don't anchor over it if the tide is going out - stay slightly to its south in the grassy deeper water.

The island to the south of Green Turtle Cay is Noname Cay. It's about the same size as Green Turtle Cay and uninhabited. It's again suitable for exploration and picnicking when renting a small boat and is about as far as you can go south of Green Turtle in a 15-17 footer. At it's northern end and closest point has a another beautiful crescent beach running from west to north and whose bottom is a patch work of sea grass, sand and flat coral rock bottom. Just go slow. Behind the beach is a beautiful stand of Casuarina's trees. It's a favorite spot for picnicking.

From the Log of Motu Iti 1996: (Catalina Islander 34')
....
...The five of us dinghyed over in two inflatables to uninhabited Manjack Cay to our north where we had a picnic at Fiddle Cay part of Manjack's southern extension. There's a beautiful spot on a sandy beach at an inlet between Fiddle and Crab Cay which is just delightful. Afterwards we explored the meandering creeks north of Crab cay that run throughout Manjack. (These are are only accessible by very shallow draft boat such as inflatables and nothing bigger than 15 foot boat except on high tide). We then headed on to a so called park, we heard about. Well, I wouldn't call it a park as it was first described to me, but sort of a experimental agricultural area. What the owner might call it, I couldn't guess. Anyway there seems to be experimentation on growing all sorts of fruits and vegetables. Some are using hydroponics methods and with limited success from this writers point of view. Visitors are permitted to look around but not disturb anything. From here we headed further north to Manjack's northern extremity, our most favorite place of all. It's geological formation is quite unique and beyond description here. We hung out watched some small sharks swimming across the flats chatted with some folks on other boats. On our return back to Green Turtle, in our inflatable we really took a beating as the bay started to kick up caused by the squalls in the area. One of which really unloaded on us.

Heading south from Noname Cay you come to an area in the Abacos of some repute. It's called the Whale Cay Passage. It is what separates Green Turtle from the other major cays and Marsh Harbour to its south. Whale Cay, is just another uninhabited cay in the chain the borders the eastern edge of Great Abaco. The only problem is there is considerable shoaling on the inside of Whale Cay preventing larger boats from passing on the protected Abaco Sound side. At this point one has to head out in the ocean around the cay and back in. This route is obvious and generally without problems except in strong off shore winds or storms. The abrupt shoaling creates big rollers which often break and makes the seas treacherous under these stormy conditions, which has taken its toll over the years. Passing on the inside is usually uneventful in good weather for ourboards. Be sure to use the chart found in the Abaco Cruising Guide mentioned through this page. This inside passage is called the "Don't Rock Passage" for the rock in the middle. It's a pretty sight. Just to the West of Whale Cay and Don't Rock is:

Treasure Cay:

Incidentally Treasure Cay is not a Cay "any more" but the name of the airport serving that area of Great Abaco Island and the two resorts in the vicinity. They are the Treasure Cay Resort and Marina and Bahama Beach Club at Treasure Cay.

Within the resort(s) area there are pools, bars and restaurants. There is tennis and an 18 hole golf course - although not one of the best. It is also the home of Treasure Divers a full service dive shop owned by Brent and Caroline White, and run with their able-bodied assistants Sandy Roberts and Mario Donato. At the Treasure Cay Marina you'll also find the fishing charters are endless, ranging from deep sea to bay or bone fishing.

There is no actual hotel. Accommodations are mostly in the form of condos, villas and homes which management or private agency rents to vacationers. Many condo owners have their own website which can easily be found at our Accommodations and Services. page or with a Google/Yahoo search. Outside the resort area you find the popular Coconuts and Touch of Class restaurants. The latter will send a courtesy shuttle to pick you up and bring you home after dinner.

The Hangout place within the resort is the Tipsy Seagull bar at the marina. The house drink is the Tipsy Seagull which is definitely in league with the Tipsy Turtle at the G.T.C. There is little evening action at Treasure Cay aside what spontaneity brings at the bars. But this shortcoming is made up for by its great location for day trips to Green Turtle and Guana Cays. Try and rent a boat for a couple of days -there are a couple of rental agencies on the premises. And remember the reason why you come to this part of the world- the waters. Treasure Cay boasts one of the most beautiful crescent white sand beaches in all the Abacos. ItÕs beach is on Great Abaco Sound.

The Treasure Cay Area offers some interesting exploration which we made part of our 2007 trip, namely Blue Holes and the Wild Abaco Barbs, a type of horse left by the Spanish centuries ago. The location for both can be found only a few miles from the resort near the Green Turtle Ferry dock and has been written about in some detail and with pictures in our 2007 Update.

Great Guana Cay:


Guana Cay Settlement

After skirting Whale Cay and coming back inside you'll first encounter Bakers Bay, a lovely crescent mile or two beach on north Great Guana Cay . Disney used to use Bakers Bay as their "out island" and tendered guests to New Plymouth, however the weather conditions at Whale Cay often made mooring treacherous and resulted in too many cancellations. They eventually pulled out after only a couple seasons. Disney still has their island in the sun in the Abacos, although it's nowhere near the cays and more importantly has no impact on this region. BUT as of Spring 2005, a major development was started at the Bakers Bay area. It is to consist of a golf course, 200 plus slip marina and hundred plus condos on the property. (So far no casino has been mentioned - ??.) I, like many of the islanders worry that this mega-undertaking will kill the fragile environment of Guana Cay who's reefs are world renowned. It's a classic battle of jobs versus the environment.

Great Guana Cay has a picturesque small settlement (map), with a couple souvenir shops, food store and liquor store. Guana's settlement makes one feel you are really on an "Out Island" unless you are caught in the traffic headed to Nippers. Here though, Milo is the man. His shop and produce stand has been at the same location for a generation. You'll no doubt pass him on your walk along the harbour road. Be sure to stop by and say hi. You'll also notice the remains of the old fig tree surrounded by benches, the settlements version of the "town square" where folks gather and play dominos.

The reef strewn beaches that line the 5.5 mile of coast on the ocean side are reputedly the most beautiful in all the Abacos. The white sand beach is bathed in waters of every shade of blue, aqua marine and turquoise. The settlement adjoins the "Great Guana Resort & Marina" property whose main building burnt down a while back and has now reopened without it. In 1996, in its place, opened Nippers, one of the hottest spots in all of the Cays (supposedly named after the no-see-ums). It is a trendsetting place that lives up to its reputation. It's on a bluff overlooking their snorkeling beach and ocean - Spectacular. It really packs them in. Access is only by boat of course or ferry from Marsh Harbour. Troy or Mickey usually bartend, if not you'll probably find Johnny Nipper himself (see food & drinks). Every Sunday they serve a Hawaiian style pig roast which attracts folks and yachtsmen from all over the cays. Tickets are sold on a first come first served basis. It's generally very crowded. The Barefoot Man who's CD's are in every gift shop and hotel makes an annual appearance here. Believe it or not, I actually viewed one of this concerts in my Sarasota home live via the internet! Nippers has its own webcam (at their website) focused on their beautiful beach, Take a gander, maybe you'll see somebody you know.

In 1999 a new restaurant & marina opened on Guana in settlement harbour, the Orchid Bay Resort. It's on the harbour across from the settlement and was first to bring gasoline to the island compelling the Guana resort to do likewise. It's marina can accommodate the mega-yachts of the rich and famous as one will see. All in all, Guana is more laid back than Green Turtle but has a reputation as the getaway party spot for the folks from the neighboring cays. The premier resort on the island was Guana Beach Resort which was the grand daddy of all resorts on Guana, was for all practical purposes, destroyed by Floyd and Fire. Despite that fact, their Sunset Bar at pool side was resurrected from the debris and is now simply called Grabbers. Light food is served and naturally the Guana Grabber the drink of choice. It is still a popular evening spot with the cruising folks. Also, they'll be happy to rent you one of the original motel type cottages that remain by calling the bar. As for home and villa rentals you might want to check out Guana Cay Villas,or for an extensive list of homes for rent, go to Sandy's Quick Links to Accommodations and Services.

Finally the newest restaurant on Guana is the Dolphin Beach Resort and the Docksider's Restaurant, Some may remember it as the Blue Water Grill. It's located north just five minutes north of the settlement on Fishers Bay. They are adjacent to another of the Abaco's premiere dive shops, Dive Guana. They will come pick you up if you are not staying on Guana. Both the aforementioned resorts have restaurants pools an access and views of the ocean and Sea of Abaco.

NOTE: As a result of the aforementioned mega-development taking place at Bakers Bay, the developer has rented about 30 rental homes for their workers. It's becoming very difficult to find a rental home on Guana. (more)

- - - - - Some rules to consider when planning a trip to the Abacos - - - - -

1) If you are considering going in May, June, July or around Christmas and especially on weekends during those periods, you'll need to book 5 - 6 months in advance. This particularly applies to airlines and boat and to a lesser degree, golf cart rentals. And remember the first couple weeks in July is the busy Regatta Season.
2) Reconfirm your flight a couple times before departure to avoid any surprises.
3) Use carry on luggage if you can, but remember, security will remove any sun screen you might be carrying.
4) When departing Marsh Harbour, although you may hate to, book an early flight and get there early especially if you have connections. And again use carry on luggage in case you have to change flights in a hurry.
5) Don't arrive too late to cause conflicts trying to catch the water taxi to the Cays. An expensive charter could be the result.
6) If you are required to change planes in south east Florida, Try to avoid Miami at any time. It will save you some serious hiking time. At Ft. Lauderdale, more often than not, you'll have to take a bus to your connection terminal after clearing customs. I'd avoid that airport too if I can. Our 2006 trip had us connecting through Palm Beach. Including baggage pickup, customs and immigration, we were at the departure gate for Tampa in about 15 minutes! More at AbacoAirlines.com
7) And one final note: there can be lengthy lines returning via FLL and MIA on Saturday and Sunday due to extensive cruise line traffic.

==================== Ø ====================

Hub of Abaco:
Heading south from Guana, we enter the Hub of Abaco, a triangular area whose three points are; Man-O-War Cay to the north, Marsh Harbour to the west and Elbow Cay (Hope Town) to the southeast. It's a busy area relatively speaking, with boats and commerce bustling back and forth.

Man O War Cay:

Our route will take us southward passing private Scotland Cay with it's lovely homes, marinas and airstrip. It seems almost attached to Guana Cay and is separated by a narrow creek. There is nothing here for the public, so its on to Man-O-War Cay. Man-O-War is a busy boat building island of God fearing (no alcohol sold on this Island), hard working folks. This is the island of the Alburys, 70% of which can trace their ancestry to the first Albury who settled on this island in the 1870's. Ironically it is the island most overlooked.

It is a great spot for all kinds of quality boat work and parts. No yachtsmen should miss it especially if in need of repairs. Marina facilities are available however restaurants and lodging is sparse as compared to the other cays. A few, rental homes and cottages are available from Schooners Landing. or from Water Ways Rentals. And as the name might imply, they also rent boats, which they will deliver to you at neighboring cays.

Man-O-War is a quiet island but still an island not to be missed if staying at one of the neighboring cays. I remember the Man-O-War Marina as being one of the first to offer E-Mail services to it's guests and the first to have a live web cam in all the Abacos. The "Albury's" Canvas Shop" is the place to see . Here you'll find the town ladies making all sorts of bags and hats out of canvas. On previous visits I had suggested their styles haven't changed in years. Well that's all changed and I have to say so have the prices, now more in line with Gucci and Prada. Still, a worth while stop if you find yourself on this Cay. It has always been the main event on Man-O-War, only now more in keeping with fashion of the times.

Despite the enterprising nature of it's residents, restaurants are in short supply however we enjoyed our meal at "Island Treats", the Man-O-War Marina's snack bar right on the premises. Then there is a new take out place called Mama Wendy's. She serves breakfast, lunch & dinner (intermittently). Finally there is the Hibiscus Cafe. Ask any islander where they're located. You wont be more than 100 yards away.

When at M-O-W, be sure to take a walk to the north end. You'll find see unbelievable homes. One, on what must be 5 acres even has it's own hedge maize (that was before the hurricanes) which we viewed from one of it's two guest cottages at a higher elevation. One even has its own marina cut out of the island limestone cliffs. For a great look at the Abaco scene, you may want to visit Water Ways rental's photo & video album. It'll make you want to start packing.

From the Log of Motu Iti 1998: (Catalina Islander 34')
.........
We were sitting on our boat at dock at the Guana Beach Resort when a large open rental boat pulled in with about a half a dozen well dressed Bahamian men aboard. A man came out to greet the one in the black slacks and printed shirt. The man doing the greeting was the local equivalent of their congressman. One of the arriving gentlemen was none other that Mr. Ingraham the Bahamian Prime Minister. At this point I was tempted to walk up to him and ask him to have my picture taken with him but thought better of it since I was only wearing a bathing suit. Another day maybe?
That night at the Guana Beach Resort they were having their weekly island barbecue consisting of ribs, chicken and grouper plus the standard accompaniment, peas & rice, macaroni & cheese and coleslaw, all accompanied with calypso music and Guana Grabbers. The event attracts a large number of yachties due to the free dockage for the evening when buying dinner.
During the festivities, the partying was preempted by a spectacular celestial event - some kind of satellite reentry. We were later told it was a purposeful event; the reentry of some sort of liquid nitrogen filled balloon ejected from the space shuttle. The fire ball effect of the balloon streaked across the sky from horizon to horizon and would have made the Grucci's proud.



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Marsh Harbour:

Marsh Harbour is the Bahamas third largest city (after Nassau & Freeport) and the Abacos commercial hub. Although this writer spends his time almost exclusively on the Cays, it doesn't mean that Marsh is without resorts and rental homes. The Eastern Shore is the Marsh Harbour region with lovely homes and where many rentals can be found, some right on Abaco Sound facing the Cays. More than likely you'll arrive and depart from Marsh anyway, so why not plan a couple days. There is plenty to see and do. Rental homes can easily be found with an internet search checking, Sandy's Quick Links to Abaco Accommodations and Services.

Understand there are no beaches in and around Marsh Harbour, at least not the kind you came to the Abacos for. But there is one thing you can do in Marsh that you cant do on the Cays and that is rent a car. This can make for a great adventure and exploration to the south like the settlements of Cherokee, Sandy Point and Hole in the Wall. Or you can head north to Treasure Cay and its beach. This is exactly what we did as part of our 2007 Trip.

When we cruised the Abacos by boat and were in Marsh Harbour, we always stayed at the close to everything Conch Inn Marina. It has in recent times has been taken over by the Moorings Charter Fleet operation. They offer a multitude of sailing type and size charters with or without captains. The Inn and its Conch Crawl Restaurant are sill going strong and 2006 saw the addition of a new 2nd floor bar & restaurant called Curly Tails. The Conch Inn offers an easy walk to town the the multitude of shops and restaurants the line this side of the harbour. Also at the Marina is Dive Abaco, Marsh Harbour's oldest dive shop. Information on the all other aspects of the facilities can be reached by clicking here. The devastation caused by hurricanes Frances and Jeanne along the southwestern side of the harbour Sept. '04 was nowhere to be seen on our '06 visit. The marina docks replaced and shore side restaurants open for business as usual.

Marsh has a large cruising community moored in it's harbour and is lively spot. As mentioned there a good many restaurants are within a short walking distance of the Conch Inn. From here to the center of town is just a 15 minute walk. Other hot spots are, Mangoes, Sapodilly's, (which had a serious fire in '07 an had not opened a year later) and the newest place, Snappas located at the Harbour View Marina are found all along harbour's edge near by. Also in the area is Wally's - voted the best restaurant in Marsh Harbour on a regular basis by AMB members. Cafe LaFlorence is a new venueÊopened by the daughter of Florence's Cafe in Treasure Cay.ÊÊ It's an attractive little coffee shop with delicious home baked pastries, daily specials, Êgreat light lunch menu and Internet service for customers. Also new in the area is the Hummingbird Restaurant and Lounge located in an unassuming strip mall across the street on the way into town. Both the latter are popular meeting places for civic, environmental, artistic social groups. In town there is a luncheonette style restaurant called the Golden Grouper. And for a change of pace, opening in 2006 was Mandarin Fine Dining specializing solely in, you guessed it, Chinese food. It's on Don MacKay Blvd. On the other side of the harbour is the active Marsh Harbour Marina and Jib Room. Here on Saturday night they have their steak barbecue, when as many as 300 steaks are served. Reservations required. Their steaks are absolutely the best in all the Abacos. All of the aforementioned have their own "special night" offering special meals and or drinks and are announced on the cruisers net daily. Be sure to plan ahead.

Just outside of Marsh in Dundas Town you find the ever popular Mother Merle's who in 2007 celebrated 40 years in business. Mrs. Merle Williams, has been catering to locals and tourists alike, all enjoying her genuine Bahamian recipes. Her hours are sometimes sporadic so we suggest giving a call first 367-2770. The largest marina and hotel in Marsh is actually not on the harbour but rather on the less protected Abaco Sound side. It's called the Abaco Beach Resort & Boat Harbour. It's a full scale resort. It seems there is always something going on here especially for the sport fisherman. It is here they hold the annual shootout - the by invitation only fishing tournament for Hatteras and Bertram owners. There are two dive shops at this location, Abaco Dive Adventures, who wins the niftiest website award and a new arrival in 2006 called Above and Below Abaco, whose proprietors are Dr. Vic (Politano) and his wife Kay along with partner Chris Smith.

2005 saw the grand opening of the grandest of all resorts in the Abacos, The Abaco Club at Winding Bay (A Ritz-Carlton). Definitely for the rich and famous, it's a half an hour ride south of Marsh Harbour. It is and is an all inclusive resort with golf and a multitude of amenities. Rates start at $1,200 a night.

One of my favorite things when in the Abacos, is sampling the Conch Salad from the markets and street vendor. It is this mans very favorite food in the Bahamas. Its refreshing, non fattening and tasty - sort of a crunchy gazpacho. It's better than Ice cream. Our favorite conch salad can be found at the street vendor you will see just a couple hundred feet north the Conch Inn in Marsh Harbour. The stand that has been there for years although the vendor may change. Get your self a pint. My Conch Salad Recipe.

From the Log of Motu Iti 1998: (Catalina Islander 34')
My friend Jamo flew over and joined us for a few days. He mentioned hearing of and old Army buddy and his wife having just completed a circumnavigation aboard their Canadian built 39' Corbin sailboat and were somewhere in the Abacos. After a check on the cruising net, a sailor spotted Ward's boat, The Cormorant, anchored in Marsh Harbour. 30 miles to our south. I wasn't about to move my boat from it's secured berth at the Green Turtle Club especially in this soupy weather. So we looked into renting something that could go fast without getting beat to hell. We rented a 21' Aqua Sport from Donnie Sawyer and climbed into slickers, and headed to Marsh Harbour. The normally one and one half hour trip took a half hour longer due to a blinding squall that hit us limiting visibility to about 20 yards.
We pulled into the harbour, where close to a hundred boats are at anchor at any given time. We started our search for the Cormorant. Since she only arrived the day before, we assumed the craft to be on the outside of the fleet. She was, and was spotted relatively quickly. There was Jamo's old friend Ward and his wife Judy just returning from a trip ashore in their dinghy. Luckily the rain had temporarily let up and we slowly approached their dinghy. You should have seen the expression on their faces as they saw each other on our approached. Say no more.
We had lunch with them at the Conch Inn. Jamo and Ward caught up on old times while I chatted with Judy on some of their around the world highlights good and bad including a "knock down" losing their mast outside of Australia. That's another story.
We left Ward and Judy at 3:30 and made it home in more favorable weather. An hour later we were greeted by friends waiting to hear of our experience.

Elbow Cay & Hope Town:


Hope Town Harbour Entrance seen from atop its Lighthouse.

Heading over to the third point in the Hub of Abaco triangle we come to Elbow Cay and its quaint village of Hope Town (Map of Elbow Cay) with lots of paths and lovely beaches to explore. Here you will find the famous red and white striped light house seen in many of the Bahamian tourist brochures. It is described as the most photographed island in the Bahamas and we concur. Hope Town is a photographers delight. From the light house to its brightly painted houses all punctuated with flowering shrubs and plants. When in Hope Town a must see experience is a visit to the Wyannie Malone Historical Museum. Here you'll step back to earlier times in this island settlement surrounded by artifacts of the era . Check first to be sure they are open as their hours are irregular.

In Hope Town, island life surrounds the harbour which has only one narrow (and shallow) opening for the many visiting yachtsmen. As you would expect there are grocery stores, gift shops and a liquor store. Note: Hope Town Harbour's western side and the Lighthouse are only accessible by boat. Another reason to rent a boat. If you don't have a boat at your disposal, head down to one of the town dock and ask for a ride. Someone is usually heading out and will drop you off as they pass by. Even the ferry will drop you off for free but you'll have to hitch a ride back. It's only a 5 minute ride. A trip to the top is worthwhile and free, so make the effort and bring your camera.

If you can't rent a boat, consider renting a golf cart for getting about for island exploration. Island Cart Rentals and T & N Cart Rentals are a couple that come to mind. They are often booked so plan ahead. For a guided trips of all kinds stop by Froggies. They offer snorkeling and dive trips with or without lunch at a neighboring island restaurant. In addition they offer all sorts of out door activities, like hiking, kaiaking etc.

There are three resorts and many charming houses to rent. It's time we define a resort in the Abacos: Includes hotel and or rental villas with bar(s), restaurant(s), pool, beach, and marina . Some times the marina, or beach are optional. The Hope Town Harbour Lodge, where we've stayed the last three years is one of them. It's on the edge of town and has a most marvelous reef for the beginner snorkeler right in front of it's pool and pool bar. It's right off the beach in about 5-10 feet of water and works it way offshore to greater depths. It's pool, pool bar and restaurant are all first class. Their restaurant, in our opinion, is the finest restaurant on the island especially for the accompanying fresh crisp vegetables so often missed in the Abacos. Their Beach Bar and ever popular bartender Gary, will make you one of his Reef Wrecks. Oh, be sure to bring a riddle, Gary loves riddles. Tom, their manager is most accommodating . You can see him putting around the lodge at all hours. Just up the street is the school house. It's so cute to see the children going past all dressed in the uniforms. Too bad we don't have that in the States. A couple years ago and in need of laundry service, the Lodge informed us of the school moms who passes by twice daily and will pick up any laundry you might have and return it by end of school day. ($7.00 - 5/05) The Lodge has no marina, just a small dock for bow in parking of small boats. It is also a ferry stop. The Lodge offers lovely cottages, pool side cabanas and of course rooms in their main building. But be wary of water pressure on the top floors if too many folks are taking a shower at once.

Heading south you'll come upon The Turtle Hill Villas, An assemblage of 2-3 BR homes for rent right on the beach and the home of "On Da Beach Bar and Restaurant". Other rental homes can be found at Hope Town Hideaways, and Hope Town Villas Still more are listed on our Accommodations & Services Page.

On the other side of the harbour you will find Club Soleil Resort, which offers marina slips and cottages. Since accessible only by boat we should point out that when staying there they will provide a boat or transpiration for you and will pick you up at the ferry dock upon arrival. Adjacent to them is the marina and "Villas" of Hope Town Hideways mentioned above.

On the town side, you'll find Captain Jacks restaurant which is right on the water. It's the least expensive. It's been for sale for more years than I can remember. Down the harbour a tad more expensive is the Harbour's Edge. Both have music a couple a nights a week. A fifteen minute walk south of town is "On Da Beach" already mentioned however more importantly is their rotisserie. Here you can call up in the morning 366-0558 and have a lovely crispy rotisserie chicken ready for you by 6:00. The cook and bartender, Matt, claims it's the healthiest food on the island. Maybe so, at least isn't fried. Their restaurant/bar, as you'd expect, is right "On Da Beach".

From the Log of Motu Iti 1998:
.........
We decided to have dinner at Captain Jacks. In addition to his regular menu, he offered a few specials that have to be ordered in advance - when making your reservation. I chose the fresh Wahoo. Anyway when we showed up for dinner our table was ready. I noticed only one place setting - silverware , crystal glass and cloth napkin etc. I mentioned to the hostess that the reservation was for two. She informed me that only one special dinner was ordered, which was true. So my dinner date got the standard fare, plastic utensils and paper napkin. Really, she didn't much mind. It's still a fun place with a great view of the harbour and the best deal in town.



Abaco Inn Sunset

Three miles south of Hope Town on Elbow Cay between White Sound and the Ocean you'll find the other two resorts: The Sea Spray Resort & Marina and the Abaco Inn where we stayed prior to '05, when for a change of pace we switched to the HTHL. All three resorts suffered serious damage by Hurricane Floyd in '99, then by Hurricane Jeanne in '04. Just south of the Abaco Inn during both of those years the island was cut in two with the opening of a pass between White Sound and the ocean isolating the Sea Spray and the whole south end of the island. True to form for the locals, they had the pass filled in within a couple of months. Today there is no sign of the devastation. Fact is they were rebuilt in eight months, in time for the next tourist season. Imagine that happening in the US.

The Sea Spray is the newest resort on the island albeit the early 90's. It is managed by the able-bodied Junior Maynard whom you'll no doubt run into if you visit. He is a great guy and will make you feel at home. The facilities here include fully equipped marina, ships store and shop and of course cottages for rent some of which are on the ocean. They have a lovely pool side restaurant and lively tiki hut bar, all positioned adjacent to the marina. The Hope Town Islanders play once a week.

Just a 10 minute walk up the road is the Abaco Inn. They have no marina but a small boat dock that accommodates a dozen or so boats up to 24 foot range and where a guest can keep a rental boat. The Abaco Inn's restaurant over looks the ocean with pool below and is absolutely beautiful. And of course they have cabins and villas for rent. The Abaco Inn's bar is another upbeat spot, Be sure to try their Bahama Breeze.

At the Abaco Inn, where we stayed on our spring 2004 trip, we became engaged in conversation with a couple who turned out to be the parents of comedian Carrot Top. We stayed in touch and met up with them again in '05, and '06. Much to our delight, we meet their son when performing in Sarasota. You just never know who you might see or meet in the Abacos. In '07 we met up with them again, only this time they stood in for us at our wedding! ( Update 2007.)

I'm often asked to compare the The Sea Spray and Abaco Inn. All I can say is, the Abaco Inn restaurant wins the in the best view category but it is often windy however there is a lot to be said about dining on the marina deck by the Tiki Bar and pool at the Sea Spray. Still, the Tiki bar and restaurant are outside, so weather must be a taken into consideration. They have a small inside dining area incase of rain. As far as accommodations go, We've only stayed at the Inn and usually choose cabin #5, the only one that directly faces the water. Both have efficiency Villas will provide transportation to and from Hope Town even if staying elsewhere. Use your VHF to hail them.

On the southern end of Elbow Cay facing Lubbers Quarters, is a popular spot called Tahiti Beach, supposedly for its stand of coconut palms (many of which were wiped out by the recent hurricanes). It's sometimes crowded but still fun for a day trip preferably by boat as we hear golf cart parking can be a problem. If you have a boat, in my opinion, there are so many other beaches further south where you have a better change to be alone if that is your thing.

Places South

Working your way to the end of the line you'll first pass Lubbers Quarters. Here you will find new homes being built with many for rent some of which can be found at Lubberslodging.com or Watercolours Cottages or you can visit our Accommodations & Services Page for homes to rent. You'll need a boat here for sure, so be sure a boat is available during the time of your stay. Lubbers is also the home of the elusive Yahoe or Chickcarnie as it is sometime called and the popular watering hole Cracker P's. It's a great spot for an afternoon Kalik on the way back from wherever or Tahiti Beach just across the way. It's perched high and has a nice view of the Abaco Sound.

Still further south, in the Sea of Abaco, on the ocean side of your journey you pass a 4 mile long string bean of an island, called Tiloo Cay. On its southern end is a large shoaling area and beach which makes for some great exploration. If it's low tide, go slow here, it gets shallow and you might have to go around the bank to it's west to get further south (see Dodges book). Beyond that are three islands referred to as the Pelican Cays. The first and third have lovely white sand beaches as does Tiloo. West of the Pelican Cays, you'll pass Sandy Cay, one of many protected underwater parks in the Abacos with its impressive stand of Elkhorne coral anywhere. You'll see the half dozen or so mooring balls provided for ones boat. These parks ranging from Walkers in the North all the way down to Little Harbour. As with al l these preserves, it is forbidden to remove or kill anything and don't anchor in coral, only on sandy bottom if mooring balls are not available. Details and their location are best described in the Cruising Guide to the Abacos. Or you can inquire at any dive shop mentioned. Click here for listing.

Now we have reached the final stop in the chain is Little Harbour which is actually on Abaco's mainland and accessible by car from Marsh Harbour. Little Harbour is a protected anchorage with an occasional turtle poking his heads out of the water. Here you will find the celebrated Pete's Pub a beach bar that serves fish or hamburgers at lunch and sometimes dinner. More importantly Little Harbour is the home of the late Randolph Johnson, Pete's father who made this his home about 50 years ago after being marooned during a hurricane. You can even explore the caves where he and his family took shelter. Mr. Johnson then a professor at Smith College, was an artist so he set up a small foundry where he made his bronze castings which he sold to visiting yachties. Soon his fame spread till the point where the Government commissioned him to make his now famous statue in downtown Nassau. Unfortunately Mr. Johnson died in 1992. Today his son Pete runs the foundry (and beach bar) and continues the artistic traditions. Tours are available and on certain days you can see an actual casting (call ahead).




In Summary:

As of the mid 90's "Family Islands" have taken on new meaning especially on Elbow Cay. Here because of it's village of Hope Town and proximity to Marsh Harbour and surrounding Cays, it has become a popular vacationing spot not unlike some coastal US cities where families gather. The catalyst in all this is the building boom that kicked off in the dot com days and a foreign investor friendly government. Despite the dot com's bust, new home construction has kept right on growing. Unfortunately, if this writer had any such ideas, he has missed the boat as prices have tripled since the 80's. I can further add testament to the popularity of this area, as hardly a large boat slip in any of the areas marinas including Marsh Harbour can be found during season.

Something ominous is a brewing in the Abacos. It all started around 2005. with the first of about a half dozen deluxe mega resorts. Yes that's plural. But this page isn't the forum for such dialogue. (More info).

In Abaco, you can still find pristine out of the way remote islands and beaches where you'll have a good chance to be alone to yourself. Green Turtle, being geographically separated from the "Hub" of Abaco and is the place to go. Assuming you have, or rented a boat, the uninhabited islands mentioned earlier to it's north are loaded with beaches on the protected bay where you can pretend to be the only people in the world and their only minutes away. If your looking for a little more activity - just a little, stay south of the Whale Cay Passage. This area is called the Hub of Abaco for good reason. The main islands are linked in commerce and by ferry to Marsh Harbour. Here though, it's more of a challenge to find a quite spot to be alone. Even on the lovely and numerous islands south of Elbow Cay you'll more than likely have company. Better yet, why not combine both? If you are a boater with some navigation experience, you might want to try what we often do. Pick up at least a 22 footer in Marsh Harbour upon arrival, trek north the 30 miles for Green Turtle for 3-4 days then south to Hope Town for a week using each as a base to see the surrounding cays. Like I said, this inter island approach will require boating and some navigation experience or common sense added to a copy of the Cruising Guide to the Abacos. Otherwise staying close to your home island in a 15 - 17 footer should work nicely. And as always, weather permitting.



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Postscript:

Happening quite by accident, I discovered Green Turtle Cay in 1973 just months prior to the Bahamas independence from Britain. I have been going ever since, only in recent time spending more time on Elbow Cay. Since moving to Florida in 1990, I have made six trips to the Abacos by boat. (First Trip) Two each in a 29' Phoenix Sportfish, (270 hp Crusaders). 34' Catalina Islander Fly Bridge (250 hp Cummins Diesels) and finally 26' Glacier Bay Island Runner Catamaran (130 Honda 4/stroke outboards.) All were named Motu Iti. The first trip in the latter boat was the year 2000. It was made solo over and back. Details of that trip can be found at: MY SOLO ADVENTURE.



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