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Debbie & Sandy at West End en-route to G.T.
The Resort at Spanish Cay
Green Turtle Cay (by Harry Walden)
New Plymouth
New Plymouth
M i s s E m i l y ' s
McIntosh Restaurant & Bakery
The Wrecking Tree Restaurant
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Our Website consists of over 50 sub pages. If you dont find what your looking for here, try our Custom Search which also includes the Abaco Life Magazine. Another option is go directly to our Abaco Search and save as a "favorite".
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Albert Lowe Museum
New Plymouth Inn Bar
New Plymouth Inn Yard & Garden
New Plymouth - View From Hill
Green Turtle Cottage
The Abaco Directory
Green Turtle Club
Bluff House & Villas
Kevin the Main Man of the Gully Roosters
View From Pineapples
Brendal (& Mary)
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Lovely Cocobay Cottages between Bay & Ocean
Framed Island (by Mike McGlamry)
Guana Cay Path
Fresh produce & souvenirs at Milo's
Nippers
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- Some Travel Suggestions -
1) May, June, July and around holidays are the busiest time in Abaco. Air travel especially so on weekends during those periods. We suggest 4 - 5 months advance booking. This applies to your boat and to a lesser degree, golf cart rental. And remember the first couple weeks in July is the busy Regatta Season.
2) Many establishments close for August and September or parts their of. Even if your choice is open, many places you might want to visit could be closed.
3) See more important travel tips. on our air carrier page. Lastly, if you want to travel during a particular week and there are no resort rooms available, don't forget about vacation rental properties like condos and timeshares. Many condo or timeshare owners rent their properties to vacationers for less than the cost of booking through a private agency. Some benefits of these vacation rentals is that they include kitchens and they are a little more homey than hotel rooms. They're found in Treasure Cay & Marsh Harbour.
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Man-O-War Home
Man-O-War Home
Canvas Shop Lady (Man-O-War)
Hope Town (by Harry Walden)
Hope Town Home
Hope Town Home
Butterfly House (H.T.H.L.)
Hope Town Harbour Lodge Pool Entrance
Hope Town Path
Hope Town Path
View From H.T. Light house
Abaco Inn Pool
Cabin No. 5 - Abaco Inn
Friends, Tiny & Larry, trainer of astronauts Gemini/Apollo
View From Cracker P's
Tahiti Beach
Pete's Little Harbour Foundry
At Pete's
Hope Town Church
Marsh Harbour Scene
Marsh Harbour Scene
Hope Town Scene
Hope Town School House
Hope Town Scene
Fisherman
Banana Lady
"Castle" landmark home on Tilloo Cay
Island Evening
Island Way of Life - Just ask Kenny
Weathered by Time
- Abaco Publications -
- The Original Message Board -
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1974 Bahamian Half Dollar
Other Currency
Thank You
Columbus Bicentennial Commemorative Tag
Any RV'ers out there?
You might be interested in a couple of our other websites.
Wilson on the Lake
Daisy Barn Camp Ground
  
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Pelican Cay (between Green Turtle & Noname Cay's)
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View from the Bahama Beach Club at Treasure Cay.
Green Turtle Club - White Sound
New Plymouth from Bluff House - Treasure Cay in the distance (by Mary Shipman)
Nippers Beach- Great Guana Cay
Hope Town Light House
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No Man is an Island* the saying does go, but who is he who doesn't dream so.
This man searched far and wide to and fro, till he found his island escape which God did bestow,
On earth as it is in Abaco.
A recent post on an Abaco bulliten board by Bruce & Lesley of Pasadena, MD, says it quite differently.
"....Well I thought this site had some people who seemed just a little over enthused about a vacation destination. Now I fully understand. This place has grabbed me heart and soul.... I can't say I came home from there. I feel "there" lies my home I never knew existed... Hope that doesn't sound too corny...
We're already discussing our next trip."
- M y A b a c o G u i d e -
by Sandy Estabrook
Information, Tales and Anecdotes of over 35 years visiting the Abacos.
Especially geared for the First Time Visitor and including,
Lodging, Rentals, Accommodations and Services.
And it's being updated all the time.
 (The Short Version)
     
I have been vacationing in The Abacos almost annually since 1973. (Map in Relation to U.S.) That was just months prior to their independence from Great Britain. In early years we stayed almost exclusively on Green Turtle Cay. However since moving to Fla in 1990, we now include Elbow Cay (Hope Town), splitting our time between both. That move also afforded us seeing all the Abaco Cays the way they should be seen, aboard my boat Motu Iti. Some of those accounts are linked below. All of the Cays will be covered here all-be-it some are off the beaten path. Therefore we will be putting the emphasis on Green Turtle Cay and the Cays to its south including Elbow Cay (Hope Town) all the way down to Little Harbour. These cays are all easily accessible for the fly-in traveler via the mainland airports of Marsh Harbour and Treasure Cay. Once you arrive, it's just a short taxi ride and then either a
ferry or rental boat to get to the outlying cays. For those who want to head off to mainland places less traveled, check our update #7 which we covered the "Big Island" of Abaco from top to bottom including it's remote settlements, Blue Holes and Wild Abaco Horses. All the photos on this and our other pages are by the author unless indicated otherwise and all have been taken post 9/11. Before we get started some general information.
As mentioned this site is intended for the fly-in vacationer. For the cruising yachtsman we've added a page of useful links relating to Cruising the Abacos. Most are by Abaconians and regular visitors. And for private pilots planning a flight over you might want check this VIDEO.
There are three
Regional Bulletin Boards.
on Abaco for specific questions you may have. One or the other can more than likely help you with any questions you may have. In late 2009 came an ambitious enterprise buy Treasure Cay regular, Abaco Willy. And that be a directory simply called the Abaco-Directory.com. It is a service listing of everything Abaco- restaurants, churches, hardware stores rentals of all types, fishing guides etc etc. It is broken down by Cay and or resort area and geared for visitors. There's even a "mobile version" that's optimized for BlackBerryÕs, iPhones etc.
RENTING A BOAT when visiting the Cays, it's a must. The Abaconian waters are the appeal to this part of the world. You'll want to explore the beauty of uninhabited island beaches for some frolicking fun, fishing, picnicking, snorkeling, beach combing etc. etc. There are easily attainable islands where you can feel like the only people in the world. Then there are the out island watering holes - great places to meet new friends and end a day on the water with a goombay or Kalik.
AN ALTERNATIVE; You might consider a charter a vessel and have your captain guide you around to places often over looked. Many charters come provisioned and just about all a dinghy for local exploration and getting ashore when anchored out. Check out Chartering. on our BoatingAbaco.com page.
The magic word here is POLARIZED. Get yourself a pair of Polarized Sunglasses if you don't already have one. They remove glare and reflection accentuating the turquoise green and blue of the Abaco waters. And their through water penetration is amazing. If you are like myself and use glasses to read, you might want to consider a pair of polarized glasses with readers on the bottom and no magnification on the top. Perfect for reading on the beach or looking at a chart in a boat. You might also want to consider a polarized filter on your camera. Your photos will then turn out like those fantastic tropical pictures we see in travel magazines..
"My favorite beach", Says Vicki Hatfield. It's located at the north end of Guana past Baker's Bay See Colors of Abaco
COMMUNICATIONS: "Is there cell phone service in the Abacos?" And what about the internet? The answer is yes to both however your American carrier might not work. You'll have to check with then first. And yes there is WiFi, a plethora of hot spots and even internet cafés. which will of course provide a telephone connection for Vonage users. For details on a WiFi account when in Abaco, check out Out Island Internet or Coconut Telegraph. Also many resorts offer an on premises computer terminal for guests. Still with all this technology available, you'll be hard pressed to find a telephone or TV in a resort room. Oh, stay away from those "BLUE PAY TELEPHONES" that take any credit card. Last we heard they'll hit you with $12 - $15 a min. So stick with AT&T international phones you'll see about and use theirÊcalling card if you have one. Most all large US landline companies IE: AT&T, Sprint, Verizon etc all have direct connections for that same purpose but usually only available at the resorts." I almost hate to bring this up because for me, it's contrary to why one goes to the Abacos. The Abacos are a place to disconnect and unwind but if you must bring your lap top, here is just the "Starry Night" excuse you'll need.
In leu of the above, another practical item that we always bring is A MARINE VHF WALKIE TALKIE. It's fun and invaluable tool for use in making a dinner reservation, booking a golf cart or boat rental and even hailing a taxi in Marsh Harbour. Even listening to the island chit chat is fun. Most importantly, you'll be able to listen to the CRUISERS NET on CH 68 every day at 8:15 for a broadcast of the island happenings and weather, and even a period for you to ask a question. A marine VHF walkie talkie can be purchased at marine supply stores in the stateside. More info on the Cruisers Net and VHF protocol can be found on our Flotsam & Jetsam page.
MONEY: The Bahamian dollar is on par with the US dollar. Both are usedÊinterchangeablyÊand you can request your change be in US as we do,ÊusuallyÊnear the end of our trip. Your credit card company will probably tack on a "foreign transaction fee" (1%) for each charge.
Thinking about going? Not sure of things? Figure you might get lost in your rental boat? Better than the usual travel guide, get yourself a copy of the CRUISING GUIDE TO THE ABACOS. It's another must. It's authored by state side professor and Elbow Cay resident, Steve Dodge. (His house was one of many that blew into the sea during hurricane Floyd a few years back). His Guide, although geared to the cruising folks, it's jam packed with useful info not found in any Fodor's or Frommer's etc. It's colorful and so inviting. Every nook and cranny is mentioned including many not covered here, and it's updated annually, It also has a "YELLOW PAGES" listing of services, shops, restaurants, fishing and diving guides etc etc. You can get a copy at BoatUS or West Marine or directly at the publisher White Sound Press. Spring of 2007 saw the first printing of the new biannual publication Destination Abaco. It too is packed with info in a convenient carry about size. You'll see it in shops, and resorts. And for a sneak peek take a look at these
Regional Abaco Webcams scattered through the cays.
The Abaco Cays...... have been called Out Islands, Family Islands and the Friendly Islands all of which definitely apply. Here you will find friendly folks, a relatively booming economy with none of hustles and hustlers of fast paced Nassau, Paradise Island and Freeport. Evenings are spent at the local watering holes often with returning folks. Some settle in these parts for a season. Or as the Barefoot Man puts it in one of his songs they've come to "harbournate". The native population is as friendly as can be. The Abacos are truly a homogeneous little spot in the world.
At this point, we should mention that this critique follows the same north to south direction one usually takes from Florida by boat. The Cays start in the north at Walkers Cay working their way 100 miles or so down to Little Harbour. For the most part they parallel the Island of Great Abaco and can be thought of as barrier islands as they are what separate the Atlantic from the shallow Sea of Abaco and Mainland Abaco. Unlike the classical sandy barrier islands of the eastern US, here they consist of limestone with some elevation and are protected on the ocean side by the third largest barrier reef in the world. For the most part the cays are green with mangrove and white sand beaches. Most are uninhabited.
The Atlantic side of these cays are littered with some of the most beautiful coral reefs you'll find in the Atlantic. Shooting up from the depths one can find reefs in waters from 6 to 200+ feet. There are reefs for snorkelers to the experienced diver. There is even a network of well maintained and protected underwater parks with mooring buoys for visiting boaters. It's truly a divers paradise and a well kept secret. And it's only 180 miles from Florida's mainland. The Florida Keys cant even come close and shouldn't even be mentioned in the same conversation. A word of caution: Making passage from Abaco Sound to the ocean between the cays to these diving spots is a bit tricky if not impossible in most areas. Even if you are an experienced diver, it is not recommended you take a rental boat to the ocean reefs without local knowledge. There are plenty of spots to dive without risk that will be covered later. For the fisherman, the fishing is spectacular, as the diving and as good as anywhere, even compared to those Caribbean hot spots of Grand Cayman, Bonaire and Belize.
On Fishing: In 2007 due to over fishing, the Bahamian Government saw to it to do some serious tightening of their fishing regulations (found here). And as for Lobster, all you need to know is here. If you are a novice in Abaco waters you might want to check Dr. Ralph Page on Fishing in Abaco. Inshore, offshore, bonefishing, they're all covered. For information on Diving and Snorkeling, click the graphic below and you may want to read about sea lice in our Flotsam & Jetsam page.
The North Abaco Cays
WALKERS CAY - is the northern most tip of the Abaco Cays. In its heyday a major sport fishing and diving center with resort and it's own operating air strip with flights to the U.S. You may also clear customs here. It was the home of the classic "Shootout", the by invitation only tournament between Bertram & Hatteras owners. As a result of fall 2004's devastating hurricane season (Frances & Jeanne), the resort on Walkers has remained closed. The Resort stood high on the cay with a magnificent views west and south. It was basically the only thing on the island. The island's reputation was world wide which was originally developed by Robert H. Abplanal the inventor of the "clog-free" spray valve used in today's aerosol spray cans. Rumours started late summer of 2010 of new development on Walkers enough so to give it mention here. Stay tuned. "(More on Walkers) "
GRAND CAY the island just to the south of Walker's is the first cay you come to with a settlement and where many of the Walkers workers lived. It's number one and only attraction is "Rosie's Place", and is still open. Here I once had his famous combo of Cracked Conch, Turtle Steak, Lobster Tail and Grilled Grouper. Rosie still provides a small full service marina and air conditioned rooms in addition to his famous eatery. There is really no way go get here except by boat. Today many of the cays folks make a living fishing and Lobstering. Some of you may remember this was the island of choice of President Nixon. He often came here for a little R&R with his pals.
Working southward from Walkers, you will pass a half a dozen or so large uninhabited cays with the names of Double Breasted, Stranger, Carter and Allen-Pensacola. Most have their own protected and secluded spots where you will always find a few boats anchored.
Spanish Cay
... is the next of the outlying cays heading south that has any populace and those folks are those attached with the resort there. Like Walkers, Spanish is a point of entry with operating airstrip and customs. There is a fine large marina attached to the "Resort at Spanish Cay." An earlier owner of the island, Clint Murchison who owned the Dallas Cowboys, removed the Casuarina's (Australian Pines) which have all but undermined the natural foliage of this and other islands. Instead he replanted the island with thousands of coconut palms and other indigenous tropical trees. The resort has changed hands a couple times since then and under the current ownership since 1999 It's gone thru a couple of hurricanes and undergone a major overhaul including brand new docks. As part of the renovation they've added tennis courts a new air conditioned restaurant and game room/bar overlooking a fresh water swimming pool and the sea of Abaco. They claim three lovely beaches and golf carts are available to explore the island. If peace and quiet is what you are looking for, this is the place. Of course snorkeling, fishing and shelling are always available. Throw in a good book and a Pina Colada from their bar and your in business. Note: the Resort at Spanish Cay is only opened in season. .
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Across from Spanish Cay on Abaco's mainland and 42 Miles from Marsh Harbour (half that to Treasure Cay) is the settlement of COOPERS TOWN. It's about a $40 taxi tide from Treasure Cay. The government dock is where you'd pick up a ferry to Spanish Cay. Unfortunately there are only two scheduled, early morning and late afternoon and primarily intended for the resorts day workers. A charter is about $200. So it looks like a late arrival and early departure is the only way to go. Call them on this in any case.
Coopers Town, more importantly houses the government offices and is the seat of the commissioner for northern Abaco. There is a restaurant a gas station and a couple shops. Visiting by boat might be difficult at its docks are on the open bay and get regularly mutilated by storms. Coopers Town is also the home of the past prime minister / commissioner / again prime minister (as of 5/07) Hubert Ingraham. A celebrity of note from this area is Sevatheda Fynes, a gold medal member of the Bahamas Olympic Relay Team at the 2000 Olympics in Sydney.
Green Turtle Cay
The next cay you come to with any population (20 Miles south of Spanish Cay) and where it all started for me, is Green Turtle Cay (See Map). (Aerial) It is the island that we spent our early days almost exclusively. Needless to say things have changed a lot in my 35+ years. During those early trips we would take our kids. It was a great place when they were growing up. They were both good swimmers so we didn't have to worry about a thing. They could run around all they wanted, as kids still can today. Green Turtle and it's Village of New Plymouth (Map) was originally settled by the loyalists in the 1770's. The quaint brightly colored picturesque village can be walked in less than 10 minutes end to end or about two hours covering all the side streets and stopping in every store including having a Goombay Smash at Miss Emily's. Finding any of the named places in this guide is as easy as asking somebody in the street and then it wont be more that 5 minutes from where you're standing.
Treasure Cay Ferry Dock (to Green Turtle)
Lobstering and tourism are the main industries of the island today. The village serves most of the needs of the Islanders. There are hardware, gift and food markets in New Plymouth albeit a bit pricey. Merchandise arrives regularly from Marsh Harbour or directly from the states. The Bahamian Government places a hefty duty on many items which makes things a bit costly.
Occasionally a doctor sets up practice and usually leaves as there just was not enough "business" to keep her there. In the 70's there had been a resident doctor on Green Turtle for some time and who covered the cays with his own plane. The then Dr. Meldelson was also known his many crash landings. The runway on G.T. is now over grown . Today you will find a clinic with a nurse. For anything more serious you'll have to go to Marsh Harbour or Florida.
Be sure to stop by for a visit to the Albert Lowe Museum for a peak at the settlements earlier times. You'll also find here beautifully crafted model ships built by late Mr. Lowe and art works by his renowned son Alton. Alton has a gallery in his lovely home. It's a 15 minute walk on the other side of the settlement's big hill. For more information see Abaco Art. The model ship building continues by still another son, Vertrum, whose work can be found along with other local artists at Vert's Model Ships. Other points of interest is the Loyalist Memorial Sculpture Garden featuring Bronze busts of many of the influential folks of days gone bye. It's in the middle of town, you cant miss it.
Every year in May is the annual Annual Green Turtle Heritage Festival. The well received intent of the event was to establish a "Sister City" concept between historic Green Turtle Cay (New Plymouth) where the Loyalist first settled in 1784 and Key West, Florida, where many Green Turtle Cay residents relocated in the ensuing 150 years. So if you are planning a trip to the Abacos and more specifically Green Turtle Cay, you might want to consider this event. But book early. Want to know more go to Flotsam & Jetsam.
Access to New Plymouth and Green Turtle Cay in general, is of course only by ferry (the "BOLO"). Nigel, Larry or Curtis will probably be your captain. The BOLO runs from anywhere on the island to a dock on the mainland serving the airport (by land Taxi) at Treasure Cay. Connecting commuter flights here are to Miami, West Palm Beach, and Ft. Lauderdale. and Nassau. The Airline serving the city of Melbourne and others in northeast Florida has gone out of business along with other carriers in 2008. More on our Air Carriers page.
New Plymouth lies on the western side of settlement harbour. Here there are a half a dozen restaurants in town. The lovely and quaint turn of the century New Plymouth Inn, reminiscent of Bogey and Bacall, opens and closes at the whim of it's proprietor. Still it has one of the most romantic restaurants in all the islands. In it's prime, it would have been an inspirational place for playwrights, novelists and poets. Once again as of spring 2008 it reopened and we can frankly report it is as charming as ever - the romance is still there. Hopefully this time it will remain open. It's all up to Wally, their a bit eccentric, long time owner. It's location in the middle of the village, away from beaches and marinas, probably has something to do with past difficulties. (see update #8)
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New Plymouth eateries: in no particular order there is the "Wrecking Tree" one of the few places that will make conch salad to order, and the popular" McIntosh's Bakery & Restaurant". It's on the street going up the hill facing the cemetery. Then there is everybody's all time favorite "Laura's (carbohydrate) Kitchen". You'll find it just up the street from the town dock. Here you will get your plate piled high with food reminiscent on an Amish restaurant and all for a reasonable price (no alcohol here). A reservation is strongly suggested. Now we come to Mikes Bar & Restaurant, now called
Mikes Sundowner. Mike's is another on again, off again place but recently caught on again. It's right on the water facing Abaco Sea. Like so many others their schedule is sporadic. Mike's mom lives across the street and will open for any reservations. You can hail them all your VHF. On the "bottom" of the main street next to the freight dock is Plymouth Rock Bar, Restaurant, Liquor and cigar store. counter seating only and for about eight. A trendy newer restaurant in town is Pineapples Bar & Grill. It has a great pool for luncheon and dinner guests and on occasion has live music in the evening. It is located on the eastern side of Settlement Harbour located at and part of the Other Shore Club and Marina on Black Sound which also has cottages for rent. Both sides are accessible by boat. Give them a call on your VHF. And finally the newest restaurant is HarveyÕs Island Grill on the harbour side of town. No alcohol is served but BYOB is OK. Here the menus consists not your typical Bahamian fare, but state side favorites such as duck and lamb etc and all at reasonable prices. For more first class dining, (aside from the NPI) you'll have to head out to the resorts at the other end of the cay. More about them coming up.
For decades the favorite night spot for the visiting yachtsman has been "Miss Emily's Blue Bee Bar". Miss Emily was the originator of the Bahamian national drink - the Goombay Smash. Sadly, she passed away in 1997 but the traditions of her "establishment" are now being run by her daughter Violet. Recently she has opened an attractive dinning room serving lunch and dinner. The house pecialties are Goombay Lobster or Blue Bee Special Grouper. Next door is "Bert's Sea Garden". which opens as the mood dictates but usually in the evenings on weekends. Oh, Bert passed away too, and it's now being run by his partner and past town constable. The Island's hot spot, is the "Roosters Rest" where on Saturday you can find Kevin and the Gully Roosters playing Reggae and Soca (Calypso). They too, I hate to say, open with a west wind, but can be found playing at the G.T.C. every Wednesday.
Rental homes, villas and cottages are scattered through the island. At the pristine north nestled between a lovely ocean beach and Coco Bay is Cocobay Cottages. (golf cart needed here). Their beach is great for snorkeling and it is not uncommon to see a lobster or two (which may be taken in season only).
Not far from New Plymouth. A few names that come to mind are Linton's Cottages, Long Bay House and Bita Bay House. which are near beaches and a 15- 20 minute walk to town. Also there is Robert's Cottages on Black Sound. Still other homes such as Turtle Dreams and Plum Crazy can be found mid Cay on Coco Bay near the resorts (golf cart required). A couple agencies dealing with rental homes are Green Turtle Rentals. and Abaco Property Management. Still more can be found on our Accommodations and Services page.
On the north end of Green Turtle Cay on White Sound, you will find The Green Turtle Club and the Bluff House. There had been a long standing rivalry between them as the managing owners of each were sisters (and their husbands). Seems even in paradise there are family feuds. But in 2005 the Green Turtle Club was sold ending the family ownership I've known since my first visit in 1973. See a video of the Club.
"The Club" has a first class restaurant, comparable to state side fine dining. It's restaurant is adjacent to their Tipsy Bar and steps from the marina. In 2009 they added an ˆ la carte menu which doesn't require a reservation. And at the same time, sadly, "The Bluff" closed their elegant hill top restaurant which could easily have won the fantastic view award. It could reopen by the rime you read this. Check first. Their more casual marina side Jolly Roger Bar and Bistro remains open.
Each resort has a marina, and rooms and villas for rent. The Green Turtle Club, has cottages right on the water where you can tie up your boat as we often do. The Bluff has elevated seaside cottages with a great view of the Sea of Abaco. This writer finds the Club a little more upbeat and an easier location to get "to and from", and explore the north end and its beaches. Add to this the fact the paved town road ends at the Cluc. Also the Club is within a 10 minute walk to a lovely bay beach at Coco Bay and 20 minute walk to a beautiful stretch of ocean beach with all the diving and snorkeling you may want. Add another 15 minutes to each from the Bluff house.
Since the arrival of the road, you might want to use land transportation to get around. The local Hertz is actually a rent a cart. A couple of agencys that come to mind are, Marilyn Sanders'Sea Side Cart Rentals 242-365-4147. She is also the proprietor of Green Turtle Property Rentals mentioned above.ÊHer office & dock is located conveniently next to the ferry dock in New Plymouth (her customers are free to use her dock). Donny & Giselle McIntosh's also rent carts and can be found by clicking D&P Cart Rentals 242-365-4655, located at the Club. Another alternative is Omri's on again - off again Taxi. Again, all can be reached using your Marine Radio and calling on 16. If all else fails just get out to the road and stick your thumb out, the old fashioned way. You needn't fear and its guaranteed to work.
The Green Turtle Club Bar is a typical island haunt with dollar bills and boaters burgess tacked to the ceiling. You can find my "Motu Iti" burgee hanging there. It's a lively spot hosted by the ever smiling Debbie. She has been there for over 25 years and is truly everybody's best friend. She recently won the prestigious Bahamian "Cacique" award for sustainable tourism. She or Julie will gladly provide a "Tipsy Turtle" (which will do the job for which it is intended). The Green Turtle Club Bar has long been a favorite stop over for the cruising yachtsman and private pilots alike. Often the nights are spent in conversation with them and of their travels. One night a week the Gully Roosters come over from town (with half the population) to play at the club. The Roosters have been around for years. They call themselves "The No.1 Band in the Nation".
At this point we have to mention our friend of close to 30 years, Brendal Stevens. I'd call him the unofficial Ambassador of the Goombay Spirit. He once entertained at the Club bar with his one man band and ran the clubs dive shop for many years. Eventually he married his wife Mary and with her full time assistance, in '97 they opened their own dive shop adjacent to the Green Turtle Club. He is very popular and attracts divers from all over the world. In 2006 he won celebrated "Cacique" award. As far as diving goes, Brendal can take you on any type dive you want, however our favorite is the day trip where he will catch your lunch and cook it for you on an uninhabited beach. Depending on the season, it will be lobster or grouper, with conch salad and his special punch. You may have seen Brendal featuring this picnic on the cooking channel and his diving adventures on ESPN. If you'd prefer a fishing picnic, some of the fishing guides provide the same thing:
Lincoln Jones is one that comes to mind. He can be reached by VHF radio. If sport fishing is your thing, whether it be inshore bonefishing to offshore game or reef fishing contact the Sawyers, a family of fishing guides (Ronnie or Rick) and their father "old Joe. Any and all of them can take you any type of fishing you like. Just hail them on your VHF channel 16.
Note: Unlike the resorts on Elbow Cay , "on call transportation" to and from to Hope Town, is not provided by the Green Turtle resorts to and from New Plymouth. The exception a single 2 hour midday trip by the Club.
There are three boat rental companies on Green Turtle Cay. The oldest is Donnie Sawyer's most of his boats are old but always run and pretty dependable. A 15-17 footer is all you'll need to get to Green Turtle's adjacent cays, assuming typical summer type weather. Another rental agency is the newer Reef Rentals which translates into newer boats. (More on boat rentals).
EXPLORING THE NEIGHBORS: To the north is Manjack Cay (See Map).At it's northern end you will find the quintessential white sand beach one only dreams about. At it's southern end two smaller cays Crab & Fiddle seem to have broken away from Manjack. It's hard to notice their separation until up close. They make for interesting exploration and have beautiful beaches too. The northern end of Fiddle has a great beach and is a short hop from G.T. We often go there and wade the pass between Fiddle and Crab Cay. You'll see its beautiful white sandbar upon approach. But don't anchor over it if the tide is going out - stay slightly to its south in the grassy deeper water. Fiddle Cay is the location of the annual Stranded Naked party which kicks off the Regatta Season in July. Don't let the name fool you though, it is actually a family event and fun for all happening.
Selected aerial photos by Marinas.com
The island to the south of Green Turtle Cay is Noname Cay. It's about the same size as Green Turtle Cay but uninhabited. It's suitable for exploration and picnicking when renting a small boat and is about as far as you can go south of Green Turtle in a 15-17 footer. It's northern end and closest point has a another beautiful crescent beach running from west to north and whose bottom is a patch work of sea grass, sand and flat coral rock bottom. Just go slow getting to the beach. Behind is a beautiful stand of Casuarina's trees. It's a favorite spot for picnicking.
Heading south from Noname Cay you come to an area of some repute. It's called the Whale Cay Passage. It is what separates Green Turtle from the other major cays and Marsh Harbour to its south. Whale Cay, is just another uninhabited cay in the chain the borders the eastern edge of Great Abaco. The only difference is there is considerable shoaling on the inside of Whale Cay preventing larger craft and sailboats from passing on the protected Abaco Sound side. They have to head out in the ocean around the cay and back in. Small power craft dont generally have this problem except in strong off shore winds which at times can be considerable and given the name "The Abaco Rage". First timers should be aware of the latter and, be sure to use the chart found in the Abaco Cruising Guide mentioned earlier. This inside passage is called the "Don't Rock Passage" for the large rock in the middle. It's a pretty sight. Just to the West of Whale Cay and Don't Rock lies..........
Treasure Cay
Notwithstanding its name, Treasure Cay is not a Cay "any more" but rather the name of the resorts, region and airport serving that area of Great Abaco Island. There are two resorts here, the largest is Treasure Cay Resort and Marina and Bahama Beach Club. In addition there are numerous rental homes and villas.
(map)
Most accommodations are in the form of condos, villas and homes which the resorts manage or private agency rents to vacationers. Many condo owners have their own website which can be found at our Accommodations and Services page or with a Google/Yahoo search. One that we thoroughly enjoyed staying is Sanddollar Dreams, which is right on Treasure Cay's famous beach. The area was extensively written about in our Update #8
WithinÊ Treasure Cay Resort and MarinaÊarea, are pools, bars and restaurants, gift shops, grocery store and Florence's Bakery. ThereÊis a diversity of rental properties pretty much clustered by style. As mentioned villas, townhouses, condos and single family homes. (SEE VIDEO) All focus on theÊTreasure Cay Resort and Marina.ÊAs part of the resort you'll find the SpinnakersRestaurant.ÊIt's a first class restaurant where we once dinned on their delicious 9 oz lobster tail - fantastic! And the conch chowder, exceptional. Ask for seat 6, 7 or 8 in Bar area. The Hangout spot in the evening is the Tipsy Seagull Bar - right at the marina and steps from Spinnakers. The house drink is the Tipsy Seagull which is definitely in league with the Tipsy Turtle of the G.T.C. If there happens to be one of their many fishing tournament taking place, it'll make for a lively occasion.
As for other activities, be sure to advantage yourself of their renowned 18 hole golf course. Afterwards a swim at their quintessential crescent beach with lunch at their beachside Coco Bar is a must. The marina is also the home of Treasure Divers a full service, well provisionedÊdive shop owned by Brent and Caroline White, and run with their able-bodied assistants Sandy Roberts. Excursions are part of their offerings too. At the Treasure Cay Marina you'll also find the fishing charters are endless, ranging from deep sea to bay or bone fishing. The Marina is also the home base of the ferry "Prozac" which runs to Guana Cay / Nippers and places elsewhere. Check with them first. (242-365-8749)
Outside the resort area you find the popular Touch of Class restaurants. They will send a courtesy shuttle to pick you up and bring you home after dinner. Also just outside the gate, you might want to check out Abaco Ceramics. Here you will find all sorts of lovely handcrafted items which are made on the premises. The shops owner Karen McIntosh has won many awards with cliental world wide.
All in all the Resort area is a great location for day trips to Green Turtle and Guana Cays with a rental boat from one of the agencies in the area. See Boating Abaco And remember the reason why you come to this part of the world- the waters. Treasure Cay boasts the most beautiful crescent white sand beaches in all the Abacos and in the worlds top 10. ItÕs beach is on Great Abaco Sound.
Finally The Treasure Cay Area offers some interesting exploration of Abaco Blue Holes and the Wild Abaco Barbs, a type of horse left by the Spanish centuries ago. (For a tour of the latter contact Mimi Rehor 242-367-4805). The location for both can be found only a few miles from the resort near the Green Turtle Ferry dock. More has been written about in some detail and with pictures in our Update #7.
Great Guana Cay
Guana Cay Settlement
After skirting Whale Cay you'll first encounter Bakers Bay, a lovely crescent mile or two beach on north Great Guana Cay . Disney used to use Bakers Bay as their "out island" and tendered guests ashore or to New Plymouth, however the weather conditions at Whale Cay often made mooring treacherous and resulted in too many cancellations. They eventually pulled out after only a couple seasons. Disney still has their island in the sun in the Abacos, although it's nowhere near the cays and more importantly has no impact on this region. BUT as of Spring 2005, a major development was started at the Bakers Bay area. It is to consist of a golf course, 200 plus slip marina and hundred plus condos on the property. (No casino mentioned so far- ??.) I, like many of the islanders worry that this mega-undertaking will kill the fragile environment of Guana Cay who's reefs are world renowned. It's a classic battle of jobs versus the environment.
Great Guana Cay still has a picturesque small settlement (map), with a couple souvenir shops, food store and liquor store. Guana's settlement makes one feel you are really on an "Out Island" unless you are caught in the foot traffic headed to Nippers. Here though, Milo is the man. His shop and produce stand has been at the same location for a generation. You'll no doubt pass him on your walk along the harbour road. Be sure to stop by and say hi. You'll also notice the remains of the old fig tree surrounded by benches, the settlements version of the "town square" where folks gather and play dominos.
The reef strewn beaches that line the 5.5 mile of coast on the ocean side are reputedly the most beautiful in all the Abacos. The white sand beach is bathed in waters of every shade of blue, aqua marine and turquoise. The settlement adjoins the "Great Guana Resort & Marina" property whose main building burnt down and which was the premier resort on the island. The Guana Beach Resort which was the grand daddy of all resorts on Guana, was for all practical purposes, destroyed by Floyd and Fire. Despite that fact, their Sunset Bar at pool side was resurrected from the debris and is now called Grabbers, Light food is served and naturally the "Guana Grabber the drink of choice". The original motel type cottages that remained have been renovated plus an additional five condo/apartments in place of the old hotel. All available for rent. Grabbers is still a popular evening spot with the cruising folks who anchor just off its beach in Fishers Bay.
1996, saw the opening of Nippers, now one of the hottest spots in all of the Cays (supposedly named after the no-see-ums). It is a trendsetting place that lives up to its reputation. It's on a bluff overlooking their snorkeling beach and ocean - Spectacular. It really packs them in. Access is only by boat of course or ferry from Marsh Harbour. Often you find Johnny Nipper himself bartending. (see food & drinks). Every Sunday they serve a Hawaiian style pig roast which attracts folks and yachtsmen from all over the cays. Tickets are sold on a first come first served basis. It's generally very crowded. The Barefoot Man, who's CD's are in every gift shop and hotel makes an annual appearance here. Nippers has its own webcam (at their website) focused on their beautiful beach, Take a gander, maybe you'll see somebody you know.
In 1999 a new upscale marina/resort/restaurant opened on Guana in settlement harbour, the
Orchid Bay Resort.
It's on the harbour across from the settlement and was first to bring gasoline to the island compelling the Guana resort to do likewise. It's marina can accommodate the mega-yachts of the rich and famous as one will see.
All in all, Guana is more laid back than its neighboring cays, but has a reputation as the getaway party spot for the whole region. As for home and villa rentals you might want to check out a new rental agency (a/o 2010) Guana Luxury Villas. An older agency is Sea Shore Villas (AKA Guana Cay Villas). They are centrally located on the main drag in the settlement facing the harbour (sorry -no website). In front is their gift shop, a new road side Tiki Bar has been added making for a perfect pit stop when making the rounds between Grabbers & Nippers. Finally we should mention the Dolphin Beach Resort and the Docksider's Restaurant, both with views of the ocean or Sea of Abaco. They have a pool too. The restaurant, some may remember as the Blue Water Grill, is run by Johnny Roberts (Nippers). It's located north just five minutes north of the settlement on Fishers Bay. They are adjacent to another of the Abaco's premiere dive shops, Dive Guana, who will come pick you up even if you are not staying on Guana. The Dolphin Beach Resort also acts as rental agent for many of the homes on Guana, one that come to mind are Jim and Kathy Alderman's L'il Gecko Cottage. For a rental cart check out Donna Sands. For still more Guana homes for rent, go to Sandy's Quick Links to Accommodations and Services.
NOTE: As a result of the aforementioned development taking place at Bakers Bay, the developer has rented many of the rental homes for their workers. So plan early when looking for a rental home, villa or cottage on Guana Cay.
The Hub of Abaco
Heading south from Guana, we enter the Hub of Abaco, a triangular area whose three points are; Man-O-War Cay to the north, Marsh Harbour to the west and Elbow Cay (Hope Town) to the southeast. It's a busy area relatively speaking, with boats and commerce bustling back and forth.
Man O War Cay
Our route will take us southward passing private Scotland Cay with it's lovely homes, marinas and airstrip. It seems almost attached to Guana Cay and is separated by a narrow creek. There is nothing here for the public, so its on to Man-O-War Cay. Man-O-War is a busy boat building island of God fearing (no alcohol sold on this island), hard working folks. This is the island of the Alburys, 70% of which can trace their ancestry to the first Albury who settled on this island in the 1870's. Ironically Man-O-War is the island most overlooked.
Man-O-War is a great spot for all kinds of quality boat work and parts. No yachtsmen should miss it especially if in need of repairs. Marina facilities are available however restaurants and lodging is sparse as compared to the other cays. Still, rental homes and cottages are available on Man-O-War from Schooners Landing. or from Water Ways Rentals. And as the name might imply, they also rent boats, which they will deliver to you at neighboring cays.
Man-O-War is a quiet island but still an island not to be missed if staying at one of the neighboring cays. The islands center of activity is the Man-O-War Marina adjacent to the ferry Albury "ferry depot" and Dock and Dine Restaurant. "Albury's" Canvas Shop" is the place to see. Here you'll find the town ladies making all sorts of bags and hats out of canvas. On previous visits I had suggested their styles haven't changed in years. Well that's all changed and I have to say so have the prices, now more in line with Gucci and Prada. Still, a worth while stop if you find yourself on this Cay. It has always been the main event on Man-O-War, only now more in keeping with fashion of the times.
Despite the enterprising nature of it's residents, restaurants were in short supply until the opening of the Dock and Dine Restaurant, by Joshua Malone and family back in '08. They are now serving dinner seven days a week and lunch, (Mon - Sat). They can be reached at 242-365-6139. Also on the premises is longtime favorite "Island Treats." It has been recently renovated and is strictly an ice cream parlor and snack bar. Aside from the aforementioned that leaves the not to be over looked, Hibiscus café. Ask any islander where they're located. You wont be more than 100 yards away.
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Marsh Harbour
Marsh Harbour is the Bahamas third largest city (after Nassau & Freeport) and the Abacos commercial hub. Although this writer spends his time almost exclusively on the Cays, it doesn't mean that Marsh is without resorts and rental homes. The Eastern Shore is the Marsh Harbour region where lovely rental homes, cottages and villas can be found, some right on Abaco Sound facing the Cays. More than likely you'll arrive and depart from Marsh anyway, so why not plan a couple days. There is plenty to see and do. Rental homes can easily be found with an internet search checking, Sandy's Quick Links to Abaco Accommodations and Services.
There are no beaches in and around Marsh Harbour to speak of, at least not the kind you came to the Abacos for. But there is one thing you can do in Marsh that you cant do on the Cays and that is rent a car. This can make for a great adventure and exploration to the south like the quaint settlement of CHEROKEE and its neighbor Little Harbour. Furthure south you should check out SANDY POINT and Hole in the Wall. Or you can head north to Treasure Cay and its famous beach. This is exactly what we did as part of our update #7. To make the best of this adventure, especially Hole in the Wall, we suggest contacting Captain Plug's Adventures. An Abaco resident his whole life, The Captain offers all sorts of tours by land and by sea. A recent posting of one of his expeditions can be found linked to our Hole in the Wall Page.
When we cruised the Abacos by boat and were in Marsh Harbour, we always stayed at the close to everything Conch Inn Marina. It has in recent times has been taken over by the Moorings Charter Fleet operation. They offer a multitude of sailing type and size charters with or without captains. The Inn's rooms are pretty much geared to short stays, perfect before or after a charter and a great place to base yourself when exploring Abaco by Car. They offer a pool and two restaurants, the Conch Crawl Restaurant a new 2nd floor bar & restaurant called Conch Crawl Restaurant a new 2nd floor bar & restaurant called Curly Tails. The Conch Inn offers an easy walk to town the the multitude of shops and restaurants the line this side of the harbour. Also at the Marina is Dive Abaco, Marsh Harbour's oldest dive shop. Information on the all other aspects of the facilities can be reached by clicking here. Just across the street is the
Lofty Fig Villas, a lovely place in the heart of harbour front to spend a couple days of Abaco exploration. But book ahead as they only have six units.
Marsh has a large cruising community moored in it's harbour and is lively spot. As mentioned there a good many restaurants are within a short walking distance of the Conch Inn. From here to the center of town is just a 15 minute walk. Other hot spots are, Mangoes, Sapodilly's, which had a serious fire and may not yet be opened. The newest place is, Snappas which is located at the Harbour View Marina along harbour's edge near by. Also in the area is Wally's - voted the best restaurant in Marsh Harbour on a regular basis by Abaco Forum & Board members. Café LaFlorence is a new venueÊopened by the daughter of Florence's café in Treasure Cay.ÊÊ It's an attractive little coffee shop with delicious home baked pastries, daily specials, Êgreat light lunch menu and Internet service for customers. Also new in the area is the Hummingbird Restaurant and Lounge located in an unassuming strip mall across the street on the way into town. Both the latter are popular meeting places for civic, environmental, artistic social groups. In town there is a luncheonette style restaurant called the Golden Grouper. And for a change of pace how about Mandarin Fine Dining specializing solely in, you guessed it, Chinese food. It's on Don MacKay Blvd. On the other side of the harbour is the active Marsh Harbour Marina and Jib Room. Here on Saturday night they have their steak barbecue, when as many as 300 steaks are served. Reservations required. Their steaks are absolutely the best in all the Abacos. All of the aforementioned have their own "special night" offering special meals and or drinks and are announced on the cruisers net daily. Be sure to plan ahead. For those seaking the off the beatin' path night spots, where the native folk go, nobody can tell you better than Abaco local Stone McEwan. Check out his recent article.
Just outside of Marsh in Dundas Town you find the ever popular Mother Merle's who in 2007 celebrated 40 years in business. Mrs. Merle Williams, has been catering to locals and tourists alike, all enjoying her genuine Bahamian recipes. Her hours are sporadic so we suggest giving a call first 367-2770. And finally, on my 2009 trip I hit on Jamie's Place. It's a popular place with local business folks and a 7 min. walk east of the Conch Inn (no alcohol).
The largest marina and hotel in Marsh is actually not on the harbour but rather on the less protected Abaco Sound side. It's called the Abaco Beach Resort & Boat Harbour. It's a full scale resort. It seems there is always something going on here especially for the sport fisherman. It is here they hold the annual shootout - the by invitation only fishing tournament for Hatteras and Bertram owners. There are two dive shops at this location, Abaco Dive Adventures, who wins the niftiest website award, and a more recent arrival named Above and Below Abaco, whose proprietors are Dr. Vic (Politano) and his wife Kay along with partner Chris Smith.
2005 saw the grand opening of the grandest of all resorts in the Abacos, The Abaco Club at Winding Bay (A Ritz-Carlton). Definitely for the rich and famous, it's a half an hour ride south of Marsh Harbour. It is and is an all inclusive resort with golf and a multitude of amenities. Rates start at $1,500 a night.
One of my favorite things when in the Abacos, is sampling the Conch Salad from the markets and street vendor. It is this mans very favorite food in the Bahamas. It's refreshing, non fattening and tasty - sort of a crunchy gazpacho. It's better than Ice cream. Our favorite conch salad can be found at the street vendor you will see just a couple hundred feet north the Conch Inn in Marsh Harbour. The stand that has been there for years although the vendor may change. Get your self a pint. My Conch Salad Recipe.
Elbow Cay & Hope Town
Hope Town Harbour Entrance seen from atop its Lighthouse.
Heading over to the third point in the Hub of Abaco triangle we come to Elbow Cay (Map) and its quaint village of Hope Town (Map) with lots of paths and lovely beaches to explore. Here you will find the famous red and white striped lighthouse seen in many of the Bahamian tourist brochures. It is described as the most photographed island in the Bahamas and we concur. Hope Town is a photographers delight. From the lighthouse to its brightly painted houses all punctuated with flowering shrubs and plants. When in Hope Town a must see experience is a visit to the Wyannie Malone Historical Museum. Here you'll step back to earlier times in this island settlement surrounded by artifacts of the era . Check first to be sure they are open as their hours are irregular.
In Hope Town, island life surrounds the harbour which has only one narrow (and shallow) opening for the many visiting yachtsmen. As you would expect there are grocery stores, gift shops and a liquor store. Vernon's grocery and bakery is the oldest. Be sure to stop by for a homemade pie. Buy the way, Vernon moonlights as the town ecclesiastic or justice of the peace. In other words he marries lots of folks. We were number 618! He's definitely one of a handful of folks in all the cays that I'd call an Abaconian "Damon Runyon character". You'll see him about for sure.
Note: Hope Town Harbour's western side and the Lighthouse are only accessible by boat. Another reason to rent a boat. If you don't have a boat at your disposal, head down to one of the town dock and ask for a ride. Someone is usually heading out and will drop you off as they pass by. Even the ferry will drop you off for free but you'll have to hitch a ride back. It's only a 5 minute ride. A trip to the top is worthwhile and free, so make the effort and bring your camera.
If you can't rent a boat, consider renting a golf cart for getting about for island exploration. The newest on Elbow Cay is owned by one of the cays "Nine Sisters" and that be Wilma at Elbow Cay Cart Rentals. A couple others that come to mind are Island Cart Rentals and T & N Cart Rentals. They are often booked so plan ahead. For a guided trips of all kinds stop by Froggies. They offer snorkeling and dive trips with or without lunch at a neighboring island restaurant. In addition they offer all sorts of out door activities, like hiking, kaiaking etc.
There is one resort and numerous charming rental homes and villas in the village Hope Town. Scattered through out the island, are two more resorts and a multitude of rental homes. It's time we define a resort in the Abacos: Includes hotel and or rental villas with bar(s), restaurant(s), pool, beach, and marina . Some times the marina, or beach is optional. The Hope Town Harbour Lodge, is on the edge of town and where we sometimes stay. It has a most marvelous reef for the beginner snorkeler right in front of the Lodge. Add to that it's pool, pool bar with the ever popular bar tender Gary plus their pool side restaurant and you've got a fun place to spent the day. Their main restaurant, in our opinion, is the finest restaurant on the island. Just up the street is the school house. It's so cute to see the children going past all dressed in their tidy uniforms. Too bad we don't have that in the States. The Lodge has no marina, just a small dock for bow in parking of small boats. It is also a ferry stop so dock your boat on the side. The Lodge offers cottages, pool side cabanas and of course rooms in their main building. But check the water pressure on the top floors. (We should mention that Gary, recently turned naturalist now hosts his own TV show in the Bahamas, so bring your questions. Video,)
A twenty minute walk south of town you'll find The Turtle Hill Villas, An assemblage of 2-3 BR homes for rent. It's also the home of On Da Beach Bar and Restaurant (& Rotisserie), the only place where you can order a rotisserie chicken to take home. Just call up in the morning 366-0558 and have a lovely crispy rotisserie chicken ready for you by 6:00. The restaurant/bar, as you'd expect, is right "On Da Beach".
Through out Hope Town there are numerous rental homes represented by a half dozen rental agencys which are listed on our Accommodations & Services Page.
On the other side of the harbour you'll no doubt spot the Lighthouse Marina which is point of entry to the Lighthouse. They house a well stocked gift shop and Wine and Spirit Shop that "will deliver". They offer rental cottages also. Furthure down the harbour is the Club Soleil Resort, although we hear they could be changing their name. They provide marina slips and cottages. Since accessible only by boat we should point out that when staying there they will provide a boat or transpiration for you and will pick you up at the ferry dock upon arrival. Adjacent to them is the marina and Villas of Hope Town Hideaways.
On the town side of the harbour, you'll find Captain Jacks restaurant which is right on the water. It's the least expensive and has been for sale for more years than I can remember. Here trivia pursuit and bingo are played a couple nights a week for 80% of the pot and free drinks. Just down the harbour is the Harbour's Edge. Both have music a couple a nights a week and both are closed one night too. Cruising through Hope Town you'll no doubt noticed the new coffee shop in town, WiFi and all, called appropriately enough the Hope Town Coffee House, and offers fresh baked pastries, quiches and stratas all based on family recipes.
Abaco Inn Sunset from bar
White Sound area of Elbow Cay
Three miles south of Hope Town you'll find Elbow Cay's two other resorts located between White Sound and the Ocean. The Abaco Inn where we've stayed routinely and The Sea Spray Resort & Marina. We should mention, although all the islands resort suffered serious damage by Hurricane Floyd in '99, then by Hurricane Jeanne in '04, none more so than these two. Just south of the Abaco Inn during both of those years the island was cut in two with the opening of a pass between White Sound and the Atlantic Ocean isolating the Sea Spray and the whole south end of the island. The locals, true to form, had the pass filled in, in no time at all. Today there is no sign of the devastation. Fact is things were pretty much rebuilt in time for the next tourist season. Imagine that happening in the US.
The first resort you'd come to on your southward trek is the Abaco Inn. Under new management as of 2009 they are under going some re-modeling and renovations including a new deck facing White Sound adjacent to their bar. They offer ocean front and bay front accommodations. Our Choice has always been Cabin #5. If you go by rental boat, the Inn's docking facilities will accommodate you, but are limited to a dozen or so in the 24 foot range. The Abaco Inn's restaurant over looks the ocean with pool below with an absolutely beautiful view. The Abaco Inn's bar is another upbeat spot facing the bay & White Sound. Seems everybody from south island stops by for a drink when passing by cart. Oh they have music a couple times a week and they will run you into Hope Town and back on request. This is where that VHF radio comes in handy.
Just a 10 minute walk further south you'll come to The Sea Spray is the newest resort on the island albeit the early 90's. It is managed by the able-bodied Junior Maynard whom you'll no doubt run into if you visit. He is a great guy and will make you feel at home. The facilities here include a large fully equipped marina, with ships store and shop. They offer cottages for rent some of which are on the ocean. They have a lovely pool side restaurant and lively tiki hut bar, all positioned adjacent to the marina. The "Hope Town Islanders" play once a week in season.
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At the Abaco Inn, where we stayed on an earlier trip, we became engaged in conversation with a couple who turned out to be the parents of comedian Carrot Top. We stayed in touch and met up with them usually every year. Much to our delight, we met their son when performing in Sarasota. You just never know who you might see or meet in the Abacos. In '07 we met up with them again, only this time they stood in for us at our wedding! ( update #7.)
I'm often asked to compare the The Sea Spray and Abaco Inn. All I can say is, the Abaco Inn restaurant wins the in the best view category but it can sometimes be windy. On the other hand, there is a lot to be said about romantic dining on the marina deck by the Tiki Bar and pool at the Sea Spray. Still, the Tiki bar and restaurant are outside, so weather must be taken into consideration. And in mid June when schools are out in the states, the many families that live on south Elbow seem to congregate there with children out numbering adults. They have a small inside dining area incase of rain. Both have efficiency Villas and will provide transportation to and from Hope Town even if staying elsewhere. Use your VHF to hail them.
On the southern end of Elbow Cay facing Lubbers Quarters, is a popular spot called Tahiti Beach, supposedly for its stand of coconut palms (many of which were wiped out by hurricanes). It's sometimes crowded but still fun for a day trip preferably by boat as we hear golf cart parking can be a problem. If you have a boat, in my opinion, there are so many other beaches further south where you have a better chance to be alone if that is your thing.
Places South
Working your way to the end of the line, you'll first pass Lubbers Quarters. Here you will find a mix of old and new homes, many for rent.
One that comes to mind, particularly geared for the eco tourist is Moonrise Cottage owned by local artist, Marlee Mason who is highlighted on our Abaco Art page. Her home is solar powered and built in pioneer construction post and beam style in 1982 to reflect the old time Abaco design. She describes her cottage as the perfect, sanctuary for those seeking quiet and solitude, privacy and peace or a romantic return to nature.
Other recollections are Watercolours Cottages. It's run by Mark & Patti Gonsalves. In addition to their cottage, Mark can put you up "afloat" on one of his yachts and give you a tour of Abaco only visiting yachtsmen see. Or maybe you want to try a bit of each? See Cruise Abaco. Lastly, another that comes to mind is Lubbers Lodging with still more found by visiting our Accommodations & Services Page.
As with every out island, Lubbers too has its popular watering hole. Cracker P's, is named after a somewhat of an eccentric character of years back. Cracker's is also known for their full moon parties. Food wise, it would be a cheeseburger in paradise of course or their house specialty, coconut marinated conch grilled and served in a pouch. It's a great spot for an afternoon Kalik or dinner on the way back from wherever, or Tahiti Beach just across the way. It's perched high and has a great view of the Abaco Sound and it's within walking distance to many of the rental homes. Strangely enough, for such a small island you'll find Two Bloggers. Each can help provide a fix for those in need of some island scuttlebutt. First is Patti Gonsalves mentioned above and her blog Today in Abaco, or you might want to check out Island Time in Abaco, it is by part time LQ resident, (Ms) Sam Hoffer. And finally we should mention, Lubbers Quarters is also the home of the elusive Yahoe or Chickcarnie as it is sometime called.
If you plan to stay on Lubbers you will require a boat for sure and don't wait till the last minute to book.
Still further south, in the Sea of Abaco, on the ocean side of your journey you pass a 4 mile long string bean of an island, called Tilloo Cay, the last inhabited Cay of the Abacos. There are quite a few homes here, yet no public access. One resident of some notoriety whom we befriended during an earlier trip, is Brigitte Bower Carey. She too is a resident artist who is also featured on our Abaco Art page. She and her husband moved here in Ô91 before electricity which only arrived in '98. Telephone followed a few years later and today it's regional WiFi. On Tilloo southern end is a large shoaling area and beach which makes for some great exploration. If it's low tide, go slow here, it gets shallow and you might have to go around the bank to it's west to get further south (see Dodges book). Beyond that are three islands referred to as the Pelican Cays. The first and third have lovely white sand beaches as does Tilloo. West of the Pelican Cays, you'll pass Sandy Cay, one of many protected underwater parks in the Abacos with its impressive stand of Elkhorne coral anywhere. You'll see the half dozen or so mooring balls provided for ones boat. These parks ranging from Walkers in the North all the way down to Little Harbour. As with all these preserves, it is forbidden to remove or kill anything and don't anchor in coral, only on sandy bottom if mooring balls are not available. Details and their location are best described in the Cruising Guide to the Abacos. Or you can inquire at any dive shop mentioned. Click here for listing.
Motoring southward with uninhabited Lynyard Cay to our left, we have reached the final stop Little Harbour. Little Harbour is actually on Abaco's mainland and makes for a great day trip by boat or car from Marsh Harbour. (update #7). Little Harbour is a protected anchorage with an occasional turtle poking his head out of the water. Here you will find the celebrated Pete's Pub a beach bar that serves fish or hamburgers at lunch and sometimes dinner. More importantly Little Harbour is the home of the late Randolph Johnston, Pete's father who made this his home about 50 years ago after being marooned during a hurricane. You can even explore the caves . where he and his family took shelter and made home. Mr. Johnston then a professor at Smith College, was an artist so he set up a small foundry where he made his bronze castings which he sold to visiting yachties. Soon his fame spread till the point where the Government commissioned him to make his now famous statue in downtown Nassau. Unfortunately Mr. Johnston died in 1992. Today Pete runs the foundry (and beach bar) and continues the artistic traditions. Foundry tours are available and on certain days you can see an actual casting (call ahead).
In Summary:
As of the mid 90's "Family Islands" have taken on new meaning especially on Elbow Cay. Here because of it's village of Hope Town and proximity to Marsh Harbour and surrounding Cays, it has become a popular vacationing spot not unlike some coastal US cities where families gather. It's proximity to Florida, making it a relatively easy cruise brought the boaters to the many marinas resulting in hardly a slip to be found during spring & summer months.
The catalyst in all this is was the building boom kicked off in the dot com days and a foreign investor friendly government. Despite the dot com's bust, new home construction kept right on growing until the real estate bust of the '07. Today, pick up a copy of the Abaconian Newspaper and see how many homes are for sale.
In recent times we've taken to exploring the big Island of Abaco and its settlements. One we are particularly fond of, and which we see potential growth is SANDY POINT. It already has a sizable airstrip and a bustling economy due to the employment of many of its town's folks by Disney who operates their cruise ship pit stop just offshore. Disney's island, once called Gorda Cay it's now called Castaway Island and the place for folks to hang out for a day and say they have been to the Bahamas. No plans for excursions to Sandy Point, thank goodness. The settlement just couldn't handle the hoards. See our updates #7 & #8.
Something ominous is a brewing in the Abacos. It all started around 2005. with the first of about a half dozen deluxe mega resorts (yes that's plural) whose impact on the areas fragile environment concerns many. But this page isn't the forum for such dialogue. And who knows how the economy of the times will support this type of growth especially in the Abacos.
In Abaco, you can still find pristine out of the way remote islands and beaches where you'll have a good chance to be alone to yourself. Green Turtle, being geographically separated from the "Hub" of Abaco and is the place to go. Assuming you have, or rented a boat, the uninhabited islands mentioned earlier to it's north are loaded with beaches on the protected bay where you can pretend to be the only people in the world and their only minutes away. If your looking for a little more activity - just a little, stay south of the Whale Cay Passage. This area is called the Hub of Abaco for good reason. The main islands are linked in commerce and by ferry to Marsh Harbour. Here though, it's more of a challenge to find a quite spot to be alone. Even on the lovely and numerous islands south of Elbow Cay you'll more than likely have company. Better yet, why not combine both? If you are a boater with some navigation experience, you might want to try what we often do. Pick up at least a 22 footer in Marsh Harbour upon arrival, trek north the 30 miles for Green Turtle for a few days then south to Hope Town for a few more using each as a base to see the surrounding cays. As said, this inter island approach will require some boating and navigation experience OR common sense added to a copy of the Cruising Guide to the Abacos. Otherwise staying close to your home island in a 15 - 17 footer should work nicely. And as always, weather permitting.
An Islands Last Resort (photo by Mike McGlamry)
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Postscript:
Happening quite by accident, I discovered Green Turtle Cay in 1973 just months prior to the Bahamas independence from Britain. I have been going ever since, only in recent time since moving to Florida, Including Elbow Cay in the equation. Since our move to Sarasota in 1990. I have made six trips to the Abacos by boat. (First Trip) Two in my 29' Phoenix Sportfish, (270 hp Crusaders). Two in my (Fourth Trip) 34' Catalina Islander Fly Bridge (250 hp Cummins Diesels) and finally 2 aboard my 26' Glacier Bay Island Runner Catamaran (130 Honda 4/stroke outboards.) All were named Motu Iti. The first trip in the latter boat was made Solo over and back. Details of that trip can be found at: MY SOLO ADVENTURE.
Author invites inquiries: sandy@motuiti.com
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